telfar made a patchwork of his past favourites for autumn/winter 17

The Queens-native designer sent out a fresh remix of his best trend-eschewing basics before moving the party to Ridgewood.

by Hannah Ongley
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12 February 2017, 11:30am

Telfar Clemens celebrated the 10-year anniversary of his eponymous brand two years ago, yet it was this season that he approached as a retrospective. And why not? After more than a decade in the business, he has a lot to play with, and his championing of trend-eschewing basics still feels refreshing. The Queens native (and square-shaped burger enthusiast) appears more than ever to be relishing his position as a fashion outsider. For this outing, he moved his twice-annual post-show White Castle party from Midtown to Ridgewood.

The most obvious pivot from last season: after a vivid spring/summer 16 inspired by Home Depot paint chips, Telfar worked with a muted palette of washed-out baby blue, maroon, mustard, and bleached yellow. And lots of denim — that dark, slouchy, almost shiny kind reminiscent of both skater kids and mall dads. Some of it appeared on patchwork-style pants that looked like they could zip off above the thigh. A few people in the crowd probably remember pairing something similar with L.A. Gear light-up kicks, but Telfar wasn't feeling nostalgic for the 90s. He wanted to create something totally fresh. "We chopped and fused a lot of different kinds of garments to create a new garment," he explained. It's repurposing the energy of deconstructionism and experimentation. I want to fuse a lot of different genres together."

Telfar's spliced jorts and cargo pants weren't the only sartorial remixes that refused to be typecast. Shorts and slacks, shorts and leggings, sweaters and puffer jackets — the Telar team effortlessly wore entire wardrobes all at once. The result was casual, but also technical, paying close attention to how the body naturally wants to move. Lastly, the designer took his 12-year-old Telfar patch and stuck it on repurposed pockets. "I don't want to look like anything else around right now," he said before dashing off to help a model get dressed. Mission accomplished.

Credits


Text Hannah Ongley