london college of fashion autumn/winter 16
From perfect puffas and seam-less wonders to a collaboration with Vauxhall Foodbank, check out the top ten graduating students from LCF’s menswear master course.
Always an exciting and eclectic showcase of the freshest new design talent, the London College of Fashion MA Menswear show made its second standalone appearance on the London Collections: Men schedule -- having previously been shown together with the womenswear students -- presenting the final collections of the ten most promising students graduating this year.
Highlights included the work of Peng Chen, whose innovatively tailored, oversized puffa jackets cocooned nubbly checked button-up shirts and wide-cut trousers, topped off with giant, horned hats. "I'm really skinny, so I want to show myself as stronger, more powerful: like a king!," Peng told i-D backstage, adding, "The duck down that fills up my garments is like muscle and the horns are like male animals".
From Peng's puffed up muscle-men, the show moved on to delicate chiffons and powder pink tailoring by Alexis Housden. A "monumental break up" that happened at the start of the MA course led to research on depression, German expressionism and veils, translating into sheer, pussy-bow blouses and protective coats with gold beading.
Pakho Lee's collection of menswear classics -- the trench coat, leather biker jacket, denim jacket and suit -- was all about minimalism, and missing seams. The garments spectacularly held their shape, despite cut-out panels at the shoulders, inside arms and sides.
Seeking to address social and political issues, Bethany Williams worked with Vauxhall Foodbank and Tesco for her collection, called Breadline. Coats are woven from waste cardboard boxes and the 'everyday value' branding is recreated, but the real highlights are the hugely chunky knitted sweaters and trousers, and oversized denim hoodies and jeans with strips of red fabric woven through. All fabrics are 100% recycled, collected through a programme where Vauxhall Foodbank users trade unwanted garments for fresh vegetables from Tesco.
Text Charlotte Gush
Photography Anabel Navarro Llorens