Here’s an exclusive peek at Martine Rose’s collaboration with Farah
For AW20, the London designer paired up with the heritage brand on its 100th anniversary.
Courtesy of Martine Rose
To those that followed the London menswear shows, an undisputed stand-out was Martine Rose. Set in the designer’s daughter’s school, her AW20 collection was a characteristically strong offering of quirky takes on classic, wearable clothes: windbreakers with extra sleeves extending from the back yoke, or jeans with backstage portraits of SS20’s models laser-etched into the denim.
But the chosen location wasn’t the only thing that took us back to school. Following on from her collaborations with Napapijri and Nike, this seasons partnership was with heritage menswear brand Farah, creating a capsule collection to celebrate their 100th anniversary. It’s a brand that conjures personal memories for Martine, as she explained backstage after the show. “When Farah approached me, it was a no-brainer,” she says, citing the points of reference the two brands share: “They were really big in Jamaica during the 70s and 80s, like Clarks. I remember my uncle pressing his Farah perma-crease trousers to a knifepoint pleat, and my cousins playing football in them straight after school -- they're basically indestructible,” she says.
Here in the capsule, the same trousers are blown up to extra-large proportions, the excess waistband folded in towards the fly to create parachute pleats. There are classic football polos with a logo print designed especially for the collaboration, as well as crisp Oxford shirts, with front pleats to mirror the trousers, of course.
Though her signature can be felt throughout the capsule, perhaps the most “Martine” pieces are the trompe l’oeil jumpers-as-scarves. Taking the forms and patterns of archive Farah knits, sweater-like shapes are slung around wearers’ necks, as if they’ve given up on taking them off at the final push. Wonderfully weird, they epitomise Martine’s trademark cheeky approach to clothes-making, while making great use of the Farah archive. “I just felt that we were coming from the same place,” says Martine, speaking of the capsule. “It was just really organic, really natural and easy.
Photography Eloise Perry
Styling Tamara Rothstein