our autumn/winter 16 highlights
It's been a season of change, spectacle and optimism. These are the shows that stood out for us.
"Paris delivered a statement of independence... Anthony Vaccarello, Rick Owens, Comme des Garcons and of course with Vetements driving the new Balenciaga there was a strong feeling of optimism by the close of the autumn/winter 16 season." Alastair McKimm, Fashion Director
"This season you could really feel the nerves of an industry on the brink of change. I felt lucky to experience the waves of the new at Balenciaga and Vetements where Demna and Guram are fronting the revolution and at Gucci where Alessandro is expanding his incredibly beautiful universe. I was thrilled to have Edward Meadham back on the London schedule with his breathtaking dresses for Sophia Webster, who we owe a lot to for asking him to do it. I loved Erdem's dishevelled elegance - a decadence we also saw in Paris at Maison Margiela where John Galliano outdid himself and in Dries' collection of handsome women, which was hands down his best women's collection ever. There were so many shows that excited me this season: Simone Rocha, Bottega Veneta, Chanel... but Valentino has to take the prize. I was absolutely in awe with their take on the dancer's wardrobe and their beautiful statement about the importance of feeling fashion. In an industry that's changing, we should all keep that in mind." Anders Christian Madsen, Fashion Features Director
1. Yeezy I have to include this in my highlights as it was not just an extravaganza to watch but also to cast... I'm sure we will never be asked to cast anything like as many people again. A cast of 1200 from streetcast to supermodels... truly a one off.
2. Kenzo. I absolutely love the collection and the direction we took with the casting... In my mind it was the most complete and on-point combination of models and look that we worked on over the season.
3. Saint Laurent. Truly a breathtaking sign-off (or maybe re-sign) for Hedi.. so different to what he has done before... almost a couture ready to wear show and all coupled with no music and awesome hair and make-up.. while everyone else is going "Vetimental" (a fabulous term coined by Angelo Pennetta), Hedi reminded us what it's all really about! Angus Munro, Casting Director
"Gucci in Milan, I loved how everyone felt like individual characters. Comme des Garçons in Paris, it was a phenomenal show, I loved the optimism." Julia Sarr-Jamois, Senior Fashion Editor
"Saint Laurent, Isabel Marant (Bromley Contingent Eternal) and Comme des Garçons 4 eva." Max Clark, Fashion Editor
"Jacquemus was rad. His show was smart, the clothes were fun and he reminded me why I fell in love with fashion in the first place!" Lynette Nylander, Deputy Editor
"The industry-wide introspection that preceded the first exit of autumn/winter 16 ensured more eyes than ever were scrutinising every facet of this hundred-plus show season. Who could revive the supposedly shattered system? Who would clear the path to a brave new world? From Yeezy's stadium-filled sensory shake-up to Hedi's considered couture celebration and Prada's wingding of womanhood to Louis Vuitton's thematic turndown, there was no single right answer but it was so much fun to watch designers, great and small, share their solutions or design distractions. For me, the most powerful and persuasive were Marc Jacobs' glam goths, Marques'Almeida's growing girl gang, Marta Jakubowski's super heroes, Miuccia's print power and Demna's developing dawn." Steve Salter, Digital Editor
"Prada's prints, Vetements' attitude, Hedi's couture, and Jacquemus' joy. At it's best this season, designer's managed to combine classic glamour with a revolutionary new feeling. It was real and surreal." Felix Petty, Assistant Editor
"The sense of fun, play and optimism at Jacquemus through colour, cut and crazy proportions. There was something cartoonish about it all, from the big shoulders (which brought to mind zoot suits from Jim Carrey's The Mask) to the clothes that looked like they were still hanging on a washing line or taking on a life of their own, dancing in the wind. The slashed suit and sweater tied together with ribbon bows were both sweet and sexy. It felt like an optimistic counterpoint to the brilliant, but darker and meaner Vetements and Balenciaga collections." Stuart Brumfitt, Features Editor
"There was a lot to love about autumn/winter 16… Undercover crowns. Loewe cat mascots. Simone Rocha's neverending romance. The candy colours at Gucci. The actual candy at Ryan Lo. Sexy, lacy Rodarte goths. Le Kilt's bar crawling babes. Walking in Marques'Almeida's girl gang <3" Francesca Dunn, Assistant Music Editor
"Felt very proud watching Edie Campbell walk for nearly every show. Best overall vibe was A V Robertson at Fashion East, but stand out show was Moschino, who wouldn't want a dress breathing smoke wherever you went?" Tish Weinstock, Staff Writer
"I must say, I'm really enjoying the rock 'n' roll posturing of Peter Dundas' Cavalli (I know it's only rock 'n roll but I like it). Alessandro Michele at Gucci continues to be a trip. Oh, and Mimi Wade's presentation at Fashion East! Pure Hollywoodland." Matthew Whitehouse, Editorial Assistant
"Seeing young London designers like Claire Barrow, Marta Jakubowski and Molly Goddard and all the new Fashion East designers keeping it real and making cool, relevant clothes for other young Londoners. And i-D's Frankie and Felicity walking for Marques'Almeida, obv." Ryan White, Social Editor
Many thanks to @JPPM.FR for creating the collages for each city.