the 5 nyfw shows we’re most excited to see
It's day one of the New York shows, and somehow the calendar looks fuller than ever! Here are the five shows the i-D team has circled (and underlined and circled again) as our ones to watch.
Over the past 12 months, Alex Wang has confirmed our suspicions that he is capable of pretty much anything. The same man who is helming Balenciaga launched a collaborative collection with H&M, unveiled a denim line, and designed the most beautiful bean bag that will ever grace a living room floor, all whilst pushing his eponymous collection into new territory. His spring/summer 15 collection was Wang at his best — plissé dresses, flyknit heels — and felt like a vital return to the New York cool that made us fall in love with the designer. Will his winning streak continue? Of course. But how do you trump last fall's heat-activated leather? We'll have to wait and see — and luckily we won't have to fight for cabs to Brooklyn as the designer returns to Manhattan this Saturday.
Two reasons we're gunning for this Proenza show to be one for the history books: rumors of an LVMH investment and Mrs. Carter's Grammy dress. Last August, word got round that Bernard Arnault's luxury mega group LVMH was discussing investment opportunities with Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. While this news is still TBC, it will certainly shine a brighter light than usual on the brand as it presents its collection next Wednesday. But no glare could outshine the magnificence of the custom-made lace Proenza gown Bey wore to the Grammys — the real sign that the brand has gone next level.
The Marc Jacobs show is always a spectacle. For spring/summer 15, Jacobs enlisted set designer Stefan Beckman to beam a bubblegum-pink play house down into the middle of the Park Avenue Armory. For fall/winter 14, Beckman created a suspended canopy of clouds that floated around the models' heads. The clothes will be beautiful, no question, but thinking about the event itself is what makes us feel like kids the night before Disneyland. And of course we're also looking forward to surprises from the dream team at Marc by Marc Jacobs. So far, creative directors Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley have cast two campaigns from Instagram, teamed up with trippy Brazilian art duo Assume Vivid Astro Focus, and generally wowed us with their continuing transformation of the brand.
Because you never know what's going to come down the runway. It may be a field of Van Gogh sunflowers, a California daydream, or a sci-fi fantasy (shout out to last autumn's R2D2 gown!). The Mulleavys' storytelling is always mesmerizing, their vision uncompromised. This show is about being whisked away to another world — and if it's one in which the girls are so badass they wear metal rings through their eyebrows, so much the better. We'll be keeping a close eye on the beauty (overseen by James Kaliardos), and the hair (masterminded by the legendary Odile Gilbert).
"Even Ashley Olsen's gym clothes are chic" ran a headline in the New York Post last month. Truth! Mary-Kate and Ashley transform everything they touch into the purest form of perfection. A testament to their success, the sisters opened their brand's first store last May, a ridiculously beautiful flagship space on Melrose Place. The LA Times also reported plans for a New York store, as well as menswear and an in-house shoe collection. So big things ahead. As for this season? Images posted on the brand's Instagram feed (which have provided clues to previous collections) include a Jean Prouvé chair, a painting by Joan Miró, an Irving Penn still life, and the colorful Andy Warhol work Eggs. All will be revealed on Monday.
Text Alice Newell-Hanson
Photography Harry Carr, Rodarte spring/summer 15