proenza schouler's exercise in control and abandon
Atop an unfinished skyscraper high above the city, Jack and Lazaro's show sought to reconcile restraint and its total opposite.
Photography Mitchell Sams.
For fall, Proenza Schouler showed in an unfinished office space in Hudson Yards, one the of skyscrapers that, Arrival style, seemed to have appeared overnight on the New York skyline. The collection, too, was one about unfinished things, inspired by Sol LeWitt, with “pieces created as remnants of things that once were”. What this meant was a collection dedicated to, and inspired by, work in progress, which involved both a re-working of some of their most recognisable silhouettes (flared pants, the bra cup dress) and an expansive look to the label’s future.
The show opened with oversized suiting and Julia Nobis in a trench, serving as a forceful reminder of Jack and Lazaro’s mastery of tailoring, with it up to the wearer to decide whether to style their boxy jackets in a more butch or chic manner. This segued into flyaway knit dresses worn over leather pants that unzipped around the ankle, a sinuous take on the trend where one is supposed to wear seven things at once. Model Suvi Koponen, always a joy to see on the runway, wore a leather jacket-trench hybrid, which convincingly argued that the collision of various garments should continue into the near future. The oversize tailoring continued in Prince of Wales checks, black, and navy blue, making one hope that Hudson Yards will be entirely populated by PS-wearing women carrying large, important looking bags (the new PS19 in fact).
Just as convincing, however, were the dresses with flashes of metallics that looked like proper night-out attire, or tops replete with feathered shoulders which looked like they’d be really fun to dance in. Proenza Schouler are at their best when embracing this duality — serious suiting and just as serious evening wear. What’s the point of being a master or mistress of the universe if you can’t go insane at the weekend (or, on a Tuesday night, during fashion week)? Or as the show notes put it, “Reconciling the contradictory yet equally attractive forces of both total control and wild abandon.” Watching the designers wrestle with these two trains of thought is a one of New York’s great pleasures.
This article originally appeared on i-D US.