beauty lessons from the i-D archives

Wanna kick off 2017 with a new makeup repertoire? Dive into decades of i-D beauty goodness, learn from the greats, and find the editorial looks you'll soon be recreating at home. Skill isn't required, but you might need to be brave.

by i-D Team
16 January 2017, 12:50am

Links: Lineisy Montero, Foto: Harley Weir, Make-up: Inge Grongnard. [The New Luxury Issue, No. 342, 2016] Rechts: Selena Forrest, Foto: Johnny Dufort, Make-up: Andrew Gallimore. [The Futurewise Issue, No. 343, 2016]

Gloss isn't just for lips!

While we love a good matte eye as much as the next person — actually, possibly more — we've grown partial to the glossy lid lately. It seems to offer a more ethereal glow than a pearlescent shadow, suggesting a fevered, sweaty dance session happened moments ago. This mightn't be exactly how we look walking home as the sun rises, but one can dream. To recreate, take your lipgloss wand and slide it over your lid — a touch of glitter doesn't go astray either. 

Right: Karen Elson, Photography Richard Burbridge, Makeup Pat MacGrath. [The Serious Fashion Issue, No. 185, April 1999] Left: Stella Tenant, Photography Craig McDean, Makeup Pat McGrath. [The Performance Issue, No. 147, 1995] 

Blending? Overrated.

Even the most cursory look at Youtube's superstar beauty vloggers suggests expert blending is essential for any major makeup look today. But it's all a bit labour intensive, isn't it? Who has time to wash five different brushes at the end of every day? Not us. Luckily the pages of i-D prove a smudge with the fingertip is often more effective than a professional blend anyway. For an at-home version of Karen Elson's high impact eye, swirl your fingertip in a cream eyeshadow, and pull it across your lid, just above the crease. Done. 

Right: Meng Lu, Photography Chen Man, Makeup Terry Barber. [The Whatever the Weather Issue, No. 317, 2012] Left: Gemma Ward, Photography Emma Summerton, Makeup Mathias van Hooff. [The Offspring Issue, No. 280, 2007]

A Bright Brow

The bold, bushy brow has been en vogue for some time now, but for those of us born without arches like Taylor Hill, there's only so much a brow pencil and gel can do. But there are other ways for brows to take centre stage: if volume isn't your bag, colour just might be. A bright hue through the brow — like Meng Lu — isn't as bizarre as it sounds. In fact, it's rather beautiful. Admire Gemma's sunshine-yellow arches if you need more convincing. 

Left: Romee Strijd, Photography Brett Lloyd, Makeup Ciara O'Shea. [The New Luxury Issue, No. 342, 2016] Right: Toni Garn, Photography Richard Burbridge, Makeup Isamaya Ffrench.

Go Graphic

Eyeshadow not your thing? Great — this look is kinda perfect for you. The clever, sparing application of liner anywhere you wouldn't typically expect it is one of the easiest editorial classics to lift for your day-to-day life. Take that liquid eyeliner wand, or sharpen a coloured beauty pencil, and get to colouring outside the lines. 

Left: Angela Lindvall, Photography Juergen Teller. [The Energised Issue, No. 158, November 1996] Right: Elizabeth, Photography Craig McDean [The Hot Issue, No. 165, June 1997]

Don't Fear the Thin Brow!

For years the fashion world has suggested that bushy, unwieldy brows reign supreme; and the pencil thin brow trend of the 90s was just one big old mistake. But perhaps beauty editors were too harsh on the thin arch, à la Marlene Dietrich and Jean Harlow. These i-D images prove that wether real or temporary, a slim brow can work a treat. Whether you choose to grab tweezers or create the illusion with a pencil, is up to you. Either way, Galliano must be thinking I told you so!


Text Isabelle Hellyer

make up
isamaya ffrench
pat mcgrath