two become one: jonathan anderson on his first loewe fragrances
Jonathan Anderson turns the heat up at Loewe with the launch of his first fragrances — 001 Woman and 001 Man. With an advertising campaign starring 'Deutschland 83'’s Jonas Nay and Lisa Tomaschewsky, it’s all about the morning after the night before...
Jonathan Anderson has the Midas touch. Since taking over the helm of Loewe three years ago, he has transformed Spain's oldest luxury brand into one of the most directional and sought-after fashion houses in the world. This September saw Jonathan continue his expansion of the Loewe oeuvre by launching the brand's first fragrances under his creative direction — 001 Woman and 001 Man. A year and a half in the making, the scents are inspired by "the morning after" the night before. "The fragrances are an important extension of what we are doing in fashion," Jonathan told i-D. He worked with Loewe's in-house nose Emilio Valeros to bring his vision to life. "I wanted to bring the two worlds together, and for the fragrance to feel credible, an organic extension of what Loewe stands for today."
Blending top notes of tangerine and bergamot, with middle notes of sandalwood, and base notes of jasmine and vanilla, 001 Woman is a warm, tender, sensual scent. 001 Man — which pairs the same top and middle notes with base notes of cedar and musk — is its darker, more mysterious counterpart. In a fragrance industry first, the two scents can be blended together on your neck or wrist to create an entirely new scent that's as captivating as its individual counterparts. "The aim is to create a tension," Jonathan explains. "Something a bit sharp, that allows them to be mixed or worn together."
The accompanying campaign film — shot by Alasdair McLellan and starring German TV series Deutschland 83's Jonas Nay and Lisa Tomaschewsky — plays on the idea of this romantic exchange, documenting an imaginary conversation between a man and a woman after they've spent their first night together. "If you could do anything today, what would it be, anything at all?" asks Jonas, sitting across from Lisa, bare-chested, at the kitchen table. "I had so many things in mind, but now none of them seem to matter…" she replies in a mise-en-scène that's as lustful, charged, and provocative as the scents themselves. "I wanted to capture a moment flush with possibility and uncertainty," Jonathan reveals. "When I saw Jonas and Lisa in Deutschland 83, I thought they were very talented, and they conveyed that playful tension and innocence so well."
In an industry where image is everything, Jonathan's reinvention of the Loewe brand is a modern-day fashion success story. Working around the idea of "Past, Present, and Future," he has repositioned the 170-year-old brand as more than just a fashion house, as a major player on the cultural landscape. Jonathan has re-issued old photographic works by Steven Klein for the ready-to-wear collection, reimagined botanical images by German photographer Karl Blossfeldt (1895-1932) for the fragrance, given Loewe an annual presence at Miami Art Basel, and worked continuously for the Loewe Foundation. Loewe is as much a curator of art and culture — a cultural instigator — as it is a fashion house. It's the whole package. "In order to give a meaningful twist to something rooted and classic, we have to insert it into the context of the times we live in," Jonathan says of his ambition to interweave the brand into a world beyond fashion. "Art and craft inspires what I do, but it is never a direct reference. It could be as simple as putting me in a certain mindset which then informs my work. I am fascinated by the commercial. I want both Loewe and J.W.Anderson to succeed."
And succeed they will. This November, to mark the brand's 170th anniversary, Loewe opened its first flagship store in Madrid. Housed in a landmark 19th-century building in Madrid's Salamanca district, the three-story space perfectly encapsulates Jonathan's vision for Loewe. There are Spanish limestone details; artworks by Spanish artist Federico García Lorca and British artists Edmund de Waal and Richard Smith; a flower shop inspired by the life and work of pioneering British florist and author Constance Spry. To accompany the store launch, Loewe hosted a two-week exhibition at the Real Jardín Botánico showcasing just some of the imagery celebrating the rich history of the brand.
The anniversary also saw the publishing of a large-scale, 600-page tome documenting the history of Loewe from inception to the present day. Edited by independent magazine publisher Luis Venegas, and titled Past, Present, Future, the book celebrates everything from editorial photography to campaign images, archive pieces, artisanal works, and more. "It's not a book to be precious with," Jonathan told the press. "Its a hefty block of paper that's meant to be used and engaged with, documenting the entire universe of the brand until now, indicating where it stands today and where it might go next."
The ability to connect the past with the present, whilst always striding confidently towards the future is Jonathan's forte. His smart business thinking and ferocious drive have positioned him as one of the most exciting designers working today. So what's next for the 32-year-old Irishman? "I am still learning," Jonathan concludes, "but my ambition is to build both Loewe and J.W.Anderson to a point where they could exist beyond me." The blueprint is in place. The future looks bright.
Photography Clare Shilland
Styling Max Clark
Hair Matt Mulhall at Streeters. Make-up Ciara O'Shea at LGA. Management using M.A.C. Cosmetics. Photography assistance Liam Hart. Styling assistance Bojana Kozarevic. Hair assistance Fabio Peri. Models Lisa Tomaschewksy and Jonas Nay.
Lisa and Jonas wear all clothing throughout Loewe.