nyfw: glam rock greasers at diesel black gold spring/summer 15
Andreas Melbostad's fourth season season for Diesel Black Gold saw the designer take in everything from Blondie to Kraftwerk, Greasers to Glam Rock, in a collection rooted in punk rock performance and powerful femininity.
"The story started with the idea of a Rockabilly girl gone New Wave; this sort of this punk or post punk, late 70s, early 80s influence," explained Diesel Black Gold designer Andreas Melbostad of his fourth collection for the refined rock chic Diesel diffusion. "I looked at a lot of performers from that era: everything from Blondie to Kraftwerk and many others in between. They had this great stylised look to them, I wanted to capture that sort of sleekness," Andreas continued. This influence was apparent in not only the sleek silhouettes, sharp cuts, and hard edged tailoring Andreas so masterfully executed, but also in his girls' attitude, as if Debbie Harry joined The Drapes greaser gang in John Waters' cult classic Crybaby.
While last season's high point were tailored trousers slung low enough for Iggy Pop, Andreas switched up his proportions this time around: "I brought everything to the waist and decided to change the girl a lot. Bringing it to the waist made her more feminine, but feminine in a controlled, restrained, confident, and powerful way," he said.
Also controlled and restrained was his use of color, a choice that similarly relied upon a reverence of the era: "The whole palette of the collection again came back to that research of those performers," Andreas said. "They were always sort of rendered in black and white, pale blue and red, and so that was sort of the tone of the collection."
Although treading in familiar territory with studs and grommets, Andreas again looked to iconic performers to isolate and fine tune his embellishments: "I found a picture of Gary Numan, another of the iconic people I was looking at, and he was wearing this studded leather jacket with little stars," he explained. "The studding and the metallics are very important in the collection. It's something I played with for four seasons already, but using the star just felt like something a little bit more playful and animated, yet there's still something very iconic about it."
These stars became a larger graphic motif throughout the collection, pulling together the more hardware-heavy leather pieces with lighter, more playfully printed dresses: "It started in the studding and once that play happened, the prints sort of evolved from there. It felt very different and new for Diesel Black Gold, the playfulness of it all."
Text Emily Manning
Photography Harry Carr