Photography Mitchell Sams

sies marjan live life in technicolour at nyfw

The who, what and wow of Sies Marjan autumn/winter 18 collection.

by Jack Sunnucks
12 February 2018, 1:08pm

Photography Mitchell Sams

From what we could tell, the Westminster Kennel Dog Show seemed to be happening at the Hotel Pennsylvania, from the multiple canine magazines and even more actual canines strolling about the premises. Instead however, a few turns down the winding corridors of the premises, and one found the Sies Marjan show -- a gem of conceptual fashion amidst the ugly buildings of midtown, and the quite insane dogs that were walking among them that day.

In a few short seasons, Sander Lak’s Sies Marjan has become one of the must see shows of NYFW -- the Dries Van Noten alum mixes searing colour and experimental shapes in a way that’s not usually seen in the city that sportswear made. It helps that Sander’s casting, by ace agent Anita Bitton, always encompasses the models of the season plus a few iconic faces.

This season was no exception – the show opened with Edie Campbell in a pleated silk dress in aquamarine, said pleats radiating out from a central flower like twist, worn over flared trousers. From there, the same silhouette progressed through a series of shades, from burnt umber to peach. A particularly lovely section came in scarlet and navy blue ombré, fading across the designer’s signature satin shirts and slouchy dresses. Bathed in pink neon light, it was a kind of sweet, slouchy hymn to sunset and being swaddled in soft clothing.

One of the standout looks was a trench coat and matching bag in an entirely holographic fabric, like a spaceship launched into Sander’s nuclear sky. A combination of minimal, romantic and personal, Sander’s like nothing else in New York. With an ever more minimal (and possibly less romantic) show schedule, Sies Marjan seems to be on track to be one of the highlights of the shows here.


Photography Mitchell Sams

This article originally appeared on i-D UK.

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