want to shop for vintage margiela pieces in paris’s last sex cinema?
Tabi boot fetishists come together, there's a place in Paris for all your hardcore Martin Margiela needs. Well there is this weekend anyway. Paris's last remaining porn cinema is being turned into a vintage Margiela emporium for two days. Byronesque, an editorial and online vintage shopping app, (think a less hype-beasty Grailed) is bringing its very sexy collection of vintage Martin Margiela pieces together into a shoppable retrospective. You know you want it. Well you can get it at Le Beverley, on rue de la Ville Neuve.
It's a showcase of all that makes Martin such an iconic figure of fashion, from the gleeful humor in pieces of luxury détournement — like a vest made of leather gloves and a collar made from wigs — to trompe l'oeil pieces and those iconic Tabi soles from 96, which were attached to models' feet with sellotape on the catwalk. As fashion's most mysterious of figures, Margiela's mystery means he still holds sway over our imagination. All we have to do is to dive, headfirst, into the glorious world conjured by the clothes he created.
"The mystery that Martin Margiela created around his brand just doesn't exist today," Byronesque's founder Gill Linton comments. "Everything is so in-your-face, nothing is left to be figured out. We all talk about it but nothing changes in fashion, so people look back for inspiration. Vetements have also created excitement around Margiela silhouettes in a good way. They have filled a gap that's missing but when that happens it also creates demand for the original."
That demand is undeniable. So they've collected a greatest hits collection of the best of Margiela to celebrate that original. Not that it's been easy to collate such amazing pieces from as far back as 1989, when the label started. This your chance to find and buy some incredibly rare pieces, the kind you don't see popping up on eBay.
"We've spent the last few years trying to reinvent the vintage fashion industry with something more modern, creative, and provocative, and people are starting to respond to that. We were approached by amazing private collectors from around the world, including Quidam de Revel Paris who chose us to sell their Margiela collection for the first time ever. The collection grew from there. Our first 'fashion retrospective you can buy' was in NYC; this is the first time we've done one dedicated to a single designer. We're very happy it's Margiela."
"We hope people will see how we have been respectful of Margiela's original approach. Having said that, we're not putting the pieces on a pedestal. Fashion week doesn't need another slick presentation. We're paying homage to Margiela's subversive ugly beauty."
Vintage Margiela fans will have to hurry up though, as the shop is only up for two days on March 4 and 5, 2017. So strap on your Tabis, slip on your asymmetric trench coat, and get down to Le Beverley.
Text Felix Petty
Images courtesy Byronesque