thom browne autumn/winter 15
Thom Browne's funereal close to Paris' menswear shows.
On discovering that the Costume Institute at the Met were presenting an exhibition entitled Death Becomes Her: A Century of Mourning Attire, Thom Browne was moved. Refusing to let himself or anybody from his studio visit the museum, he instead used the title as inspiration for his most macabre collection yet.
Seeing the act of mourning as something strange and beautiful, Thom told a romantic story of a solitary man named Michael. Having awoken wearing white, Michael changed into a black suit, climbed back into bed and promptly died. Mourners slowly arrived to the stunning and sorrowful sound of Handel's Sarabande, clad in all black everything, beautifully cut python jackets and fur-trimmed coats abound. Grief-stricken pale faces - some shaded by veils - ensured the tone of the presentation never wavered, not even with the subtle embroidered turtles hidden amongst the grief. With a sombre ritualistic tale, Thom Browne acknowledged that the world is a dark place and closed the Paris shows with a funeral.
Text Francesca Dunn
Photography Ash Kingston