inside études studio’s autumn/winter 17 collection
We caught up with the Études gang before their show tomorrow to talk inspiration, interior design, and collaborating with Nirvana cellist Lori Goldston.
"It's about interiors, your apartment, personal objects, fabrics you can find on a piece of furniture," Études Studio's Aurelien states, when asked to summarise their autumn/winter 17 collection, showing in Paris tomorrow.
The youthful Parisian brand are instantly recognisable for the European Stars that adorn their clothes. On their clothes it becomes a statement of unity and a symbol of togetherness. It's an emblem that has run throughout their collections since the beginning, but the events of the last 12 months mean it's grown in importance, and taken on a new life.
But there's more to Études than their signature. Alongside Aurelien, there's Jeremie Egry and José Lamali, and together they're busy blurring the boundaries and shaking the systems that make up fashion. They're a creative collective for whom fashion is one part of a kingdom that includes publishing and artistic direction. There's a quiet political energy that underpins their work, but over the last few seasons their approach to design has got more daring, more inventive, less reliant on surface. They're riding a creative wave right now and their spring/summer 17 was their most exciting yet, pushing fabric and silhouette further and deeper.
Collaboration, discussion, art, cross-pollination all feed into Études' creative universe. When we heard they were working with iconic Nirvana cellist Lori Goldston for their autumn/winter 17 show (she famously played their Unplugged gig and featured through the band's final In Utero period) we had to find out more. We asked them to explain their influences and collaborators for this season, share the images on their moodboard, and answer two very serious questions…
On working with Lori Goldston...
"We invited Lori for the intimacy of her music, she is playing solo cello, her music is sensitive and experimental. We like the idea of creating a special scene. like in a movie and her music as this cinematographic particularity. So for the runway show, we want to create a fleeting moment, a close link with the sound, we believe her music will do it perfectly. Finally Lori was part of Nirvana's MTV Unplugged performance, a scene that was a strong influence on the collection."
On finding inspiration in Dike Blair...
"We met Dike in NYC, where he works and lives. We were driven to his gouaches, these are still lifes, based from his own snapshot photography. The gouaches depict personal moment and objects, they are both carefully painted and very simple at the same time."
On collaborating with Matthew Chambers...
"Matthew's a young artist, currently living and working in Montana producing drawings, books, and paintings. For autumn/winter 17, we were curious to use floral patterns, we liked that Matthew's were considerably visceral, contemporary and coloirful. He produces them primarily with process in mind."
The collection is inspired by interiors and apartments. If your house was on fire, what one thing would you save, and why?
"The box with our photo negatives in it.They are memories from travels, friends, places... they can't be replaced."
And if you could own one piece of furniture for your house, what it would it be, and why?
"A Jean Prouvé chair, it's both beautifully designed and utilitarian for everyday life."
Text Felix Petty