people are actually still buying vetements
But more people are buying Balenciaga.
Last month, streetwear website Highsnobiety created an fashion-internet furore with an article titled 2 Years After They Broke the Internet, It Looks Like Nobody is Buying Vetements. Claiming that Vetements wasn’t selling as much as it used to, and that Demna Gvasalia was saving all his best ideas for Balenciaga. It set off fevered denials and accusations of fake news and wannabe journalism from the brand.
This morning, fashion shopping platform Lyst released their index of the best performing brands on their site for the first quarter of year. The big news being Vetements has risen up two places in their brand rankings, to third, behind Balenciaga and Gucci.
Business of Fashion analysed the data to reveal that more people are searching for and buying Vetements than ever before, it’s just that even more people are buying and searching for Balenciaga; which is maybe not the most surprising news, as Balenciaga have had a standout year. They are undeniably the hypest brand at the moment -- a crown once held by Vetements. Their Triple-S trainer feels totally ubiquitous, and Balenciaga have also been helped by Vetements skipping a show season, choosing to debut their spring/summer 18 collection via lookbook rather than catwalk show. Balenciaga’s price-points are relatively cheaper than Vetements, too, and they’re backed by the marketing spending power of Kering, and the creative mastery of the Balenciaga ateliers.
Hype is a fickle beast. We live in a fashion landscape powered by a relentless cycle of newness, Vetements have spent their last few seasons also refining their core aesthetic world -- oversized silhouettes, deconstructed cut-and-paste garments, collaborative mania -- rather than staking out claims on new territory.
Their autumn/winter 18 show was a definite move forward for the brand though. Staged in a Parisian flea market, Demna proposed a vision of more-is-more layering, inside-out tailoring, Margiela tributes, Eastern European headscarves, and nu-metal pastiches. Expect to see them rise again.