rockstud untitled: vanessa beecroft collaborates with valentino

Kanye West’s favourite artist lends her eye to Italian heritage brand.

by i-D Staff and Jack Sunnucks
03 May 2016, 9:10pm

Fresh from her success with Yeezy Season 3, Kanye's Madison Square Garden mega show that seemingly dominated fashion month coverage, artist Vanessa Beecroft has leant her sparse aesthetic to the launch of Valentino's Rockstud Untitled collection. It's a unisex capsule collection of classics -- a trench, crewneck sweater and white shirt, amongst other garments, with gold stud trim, packaged in a numbered canvas satchel.

The collection is inspired by Wabi-sabi, the Japanese philosophy of imperfection and impermanence, which seems to contrast well with Beecroft's obsession with perfection via her performances. Where it differs however is in its unisex nature -- something the artist doesn't usually ponder in her work.

"I have never worked on a unisex concept because my work focuses on sex distinction," Beecroft explains. "I work with groups of women, groups that can look identical from a distance, but that are formed by different identities, different women dressed the same. Like something military," she adds.

"I love the purity of the current designs of Valentino, the consolidation of past techniques with a vision of the present and future. This is an ultimate dream of mine. It was a challenge to work in such a short time on a relatively casual project without looking like an imitation of myself. The active collaboration of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli made this possible and feel it like an adventure."

The performance itself comprises twenty five men and women, including the actress Emily Mortimer in one of Beecroft's signature formations at the New York Academy of Art. Images and video of Beecroft's creation for the house are currently being shown in Valentino windows in Milan, London and New York.


Text Jack Sunnucks
Images via Valentino 

Vanessa Beecroft