victoria beckham on her spring/summer 16 city surf collection
The Former Posh Spice moves beyond black to embrace bright color and print for spring.
Farewell to the black, mod, mini-dresses one associates with Victoria Beckham's namesake line. In recent seasons, the designer has been moving toward a more fluid, forgiving silhouette with a focus on hidden luxury (much like her sisters-in-chic Phoebe Philo and the Olsen twins at The Row). Sunday's spring/summer 16 collection continued in this modest vein: skirts were mid-calf, (most) shoes were flat, and ornamentation was kept to a minimum.
The big difference: a bright, Calder-esque palette and loads of prints.
"It's a very liberating collection," said Victoria backstage, flanked by her son Brooklyn and Mr. Beckham. "You can really make it your own." Even more so than previous collections, given the range of color and print. With pieces like marigold suede miniskirts and red-and-green gingham dresses, Victoria's confident, modern woman will be a bit more eclectic come spring.
Victoria admitted that print is a departure for her personally. "I like to start with something that's a little more challenging, and I don't wear a lot of print," she said.
Although she was wearing head-to-toe black, she said she was excited in particular to wear the in-house developed urban surf print that was splashed across dresses, tops, and skirts. "It's not California surf, it's city surf," she specified.
What "city surf" is exactly is anyone's guess. Let's say it has something to do with an airiness that can translate to the streets. The type of attitude that is relaxed enough to wear culottes and flats, but directional enough to include oversized crescent moon handbags and velvet devoré slipdresses. "There's a lightness that you need in summer," said Beckham. "Everything is very wearable."
Indeed, wearability is the signature of the brand, and the driving force behind its successful Mayfair store and expansion into Asia (now its #1 market). You can see that it works. The models strode confidently - and quite speedily - down the runway in a way that cannot be faked. No one stumbled, and the girls looked legitimately at ease.
For Victoria, it all comes back to women. In what is now a familiar refrain, she said, "I want to make women feel like the best version of themselves." Which come spring, will mean being a bit more daring, and taking a chance on color.
Text Rory Satran
Photography Jason Lloyd-Evans