industrial femininity rocks diesel black gold autumn/winter 15
Creative director Andreas Melbostad’s refined rock chic consider iconic photographer Peter Lindbergh’s strength and sensuality.
"I was really taken by the raw beauty of Peter Lindbergh's work, the way he captured women with a lot of power but simultaneously achieved an exposed feeling," Diesel Black Gold creative director Andreas Melbostad told us following his autumn/winter 15 show. "I liked the duality of the masculine strength and structure set against this feminine sensuality."
If the designer has brought one thing to his tenure at the helm of Diesel's refined rock chic diffusion, it's incredibly thorough execution. Andreas translated this season's vision of strength and sensuality across all aspects of autumn/winter beautifully. Hair hit the balance with pompadour ponytails: sculpted like Teddy Boy quiffs but softened with delicate wetness (still a prevailing beauty trend this season.) Bucket bags were sturdy, yet shiny and sweet. But nothing shone brighter than the collection's silhouettes.
"The play with the silhouette was very important and it's nice to explore that a little bit more now for me at Diesel Black Gold because we've made a foundation," he explained. Where last season put the emphasis on sleekness, autumn/winter 15 balanced structure with femininity. Masculine, oversized, square-shoulder jackets were paired with chunky knitwear and flashes of lace slip dresses. "It's a little bit of an 80s approach: it's almost like a new power suit proposition, but really abstracted."
Embellishments also worked to translate the collection's play between softness and structure. "I love hardware and metal touches and I wanted it to be very industrial in utility," Andreas said. The designer juxtaposed these industrial touches with lace and brocade elements to hit that sweet spot. "I took things that you'd maybe associate with a tougher or more structured garment and used them in a soft dress with adjusters, cotton webbing, some metal clips, and hooks," he explained. "I wanted to use function and embellishment as a combination."
Text Emily Manning
Photography Kathy Lo