2014 fashion flashback: september

Rick Owens towers over London, HBA reflects our times and Kanye requires tit tape in plunging top.

by i-D Team and Greg French
28 December 2014, 9:35am

September saw the descent of the spring/summer 15 season, but not before the 25-foot naked torso of Rick Owens by artist Doug Jennings on the façade of Selfridges. Part of The World of Rick Owens, the statue joined a dark yet dazzling selection of objects and environments to celebrate the American fashion designer's 20 years in the industry.

Spectacle, or so it seemed, was also at the heart of NYFW (and not just following those leaked J. Law snaps) with the hotly anticipated Gareth Pugh extravaganza. Funded in part by Lexus - dance, film and that cyclone came together for an impressive theatrical experience, despite driving attention away from some of the more interesting silhouettes that he had churned out this season. Hood By Air, by contrast, stripped back their offering - save for a few Great Danes - offering an impressive selection of clothes on street-cast models that felt fresh and reflective of our times.

For the UK, in between the announcement of a second royal baby, a climatic fight for Scottish Independence and the opening of Horst: Photographer of Style, time was also found for a smattering of sensational shows at LFW. Ed Marler's vampire-inspired collection rose triumphant and wouldn't have looked out of place in Joel Schumacher's The Lost Boys. Claire Barrow also continued to show as part of the NEWGEN initiative, presenting her clothes that represented "calm amongst the masses" in an intimate venue. It was also the month that London-based duo Marques Almeida launched their collab with Topshop.

Rodolfo Paglialunga joined Milan's fashion ranks for its fashion week, following his appointment at the house of Jil Sander in April this year. Versace rehashed its heritage in a contemporary fashion, using its emblematic medusa logo in metallic meshes and colour blocked cocktail dresses.

Stand-outs for Paris included Dries van Noten, whose girls did anything but stand in the shows epic finale. Lanvin also held headlines, if not for the elegant draping, then for that Kanye outfit that had everyone screaming for tit tape.

The hottest ticket however wasn't for any of fashion's four capitals; instead for California, where Apple announced the arrival of its Apple Watch (note the fashionable axing of 'i'), having poached former Burberry CEO Angela Ahrendts. The wearable-tech is to hit shelves in 2015.


Gareth Pugh spring/summer 15
Photography Mitchell Sams 

Dries Van Noten
Apple Watch
Rick Owens
Claire Barrow
Gareth Pugh
Marques Almeida
jil sander