coach menswear autumn/winter 15
In the brand's menswear debut, new creative director Stuart Vevers presented a collection full of classic silhouettes reimagined in leather and shearling.
In his first menswear show for American brand Coach, Stuart Vevers presented a man who looked very warm, and very fucking cool. The statement shearling coats were the first things to draw breath; beastly big and beautiful. The ones made entirely from shearling played with pimp proportions, but toned it all down through muted shades, most indulgently in mahogany. They were actually classic styles - track jackets and M65 coats - but the shapes that this thick material creates meant that the lines were blurred and styles felt brand new.
The shearling - which also snuck out of sneakers and lined parka hoods - was a cosy counterpoint to the tough guy leather (but also v soft), which came in multiple forms, from slim, black trousers to an oversized, bright orange block of beautiful coat. Coach is primarily a leather house, and with his experience at Bottega Veneta, Mulberry and Loewe, Vevers is clearly a master of the stuff, developing his skills with the material through each esteemed house.
Known for its women's bags in the States, Coach will soon become a go-to brand for men's totes, backpacks and messengers (the latter worn in a particularly '90s way with strap across chest here). As well as the bags, the small leather goods on display afterwards (including neat wallets and luxurious lanyards) looked like they'll be highly coveted by men of multiple fashion disciplines.
The backdrop - unforgiving snow scenes and car crash wastelands - evoked the "a cinematic vision of the American landscape", namely Gus Van Sant's in his early 90s flick, My Own Private Idaho. The blown-up image of a ginger-leaved forest was a perfect for the camouflage in the collection, which was no doubt influenced by its use as an urban style staple in New York, Vevers' new home. Here's it's been updated it by a spray-paint effect and a sexier colour combination, with its greater use of black.
The slim, pleat-fronted charcoal trousers, casual tees and chunky ribbed roll necks oozed quality, but it was the outerwear that ruled the roost at Coach. There are too many desirable pieces to mention, but they all looked like they had the power to transform any wearer, lend them an attitude and ultimately, protect them from the chills.
Because if there's one New York effect on Vevers' work that seems clear, it's the city's brutal winter. He'll have endured last year's Polar Vortex soon after moving there, and whilst blatant biography might seem naff, anyone who lived there then (and I did) must understand truly the need for coats and shoes that can cope with those killer cold climes. The wardrobe Vevers has created means the Coach man couldn't be better equipped for autumn/winter '15.
Text Stuart Brumfitt
Photography Mitchell Sams