Vetements confirmed its membership in a close-knit cabal of edgy new Paris designers with last night's show. Jacquemus is also a member, but whilst his shows are fresher, poppier and more optimistic, Demna Gvasalia's are off-kilter, grungier, mildly threatening. The show's setting in Paris's notorious gay sex club, Le Depot, was inspired. The thought of Kanye and Jared Leto descending into its stinking, seedy depths is remarkable for one, but the location is also a witty reference to a hidden side of the fashion world: whilst luxury houses have always been exalted at champagne receptions, many designers have been known to sneak off there once the fashion parties get boring.
Anyway, back to the clothes. It started off with deconstructed firemen, policemen and security uniforms (there are suggestions they were a tribute to the forces who protected Parisians around the Charlie Hebdo attacks), then moved through high-waisted vintage jeans, giant, sloppy coats (bikers, bombers, trenches, blazers) and purposefully creepy sports motorbike leathers. Throwing all this into yet more peculiarity were the floral tea dresses and marigold gloves. The casting was especially interesting for Paris, made up of sexually-charged, androgynous cool kids, including i-D photographer Harley Weir.
Photography Mitchell Sams