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the a-z of nyfw

From HBA to KTZ, we’ve rounded up what not to miss this NYFW.

by Emily Manning
|
11 February 2015, 10:00pm

Photography Harry Carr

A is for Astrid Andersen: Last year, the Copenhagen-based menswear star watched her collaboration with Topshop sell out in record time and opened her first ever standalone boutique. Astrid's kicking off 2015 with a bang in the Big Apple, presenting her first ever "bespoke" collection on the first official day of NYFW.

Photography Piczo

B is for Beauty: Last season saw pierced eyebrows at Rodarte, slick-down baby hairs at DKNY and 90s rave hair dos at Marc by Marc Jacobs. Second to the fashion, we'll be watching the runway for the beauty looks we'll want to emulate come autumn/winter!

C is for Cathy Horyn: Break out the denim cutoffs, Cathy Horyn is back! The patron saint of real talk and former New York Times lead fashion critic made headlines earlier this year when it was announced that she'd be acting as The Cut's critic-at-large for 2015. This NYFW marks Cathy's first time back in the saddle and we're thrilled to hear what she's got to say.

D is for Downtown: It finally happened. After years of legal battles between NYC Parks Advocates and the city Parks Department for misuse of the Lincoln Center-adjacent Damrosch Park, NYFW was given a boot from the Upper West Side five years early. Before moving to its still under construction permanent home, Hudson Yards, NYFW will be exploring uncharted downtown waters.

E is for Eckhaus Latta: Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta, the brains behind bi-coastal brand Eckhaus Latta, have always done the runway differently. Seasons past have seen a purple-painted India Menuez, a particularly angelic cover of Prince's "When Doves Cry," and lots of lettuce. We can't wait to see what strange and beautiful visions Mike and Zoe have this time around.

Photography Harry Carr

F is for Front Row: Last season Miley Cyrus broke Instagram when she (and her stonerific arts and crafts projects) posted up front row at Jeremy Scott's spring/summer show. Who will we be spotting this season? Perhaps i-D Music Issue cover star Rihanna will grace Adam Selman attendees with her presence again, or maybe the Smith siblings will bring their prana energy to NYFW? We'll just have to wait and see.

G is for GIFs: As new ways to share and play with images pop up all over the place, we're fully expecting to see some super creative (and hilarious) NYFW themed mash ups of everything from Suzy's pompadour to Cara's brows.

Photography Barbara Anastacio

H: Hood by Air: Having nabbed an LVMH Special Prize last year, Shayne Oliver's eight-year-old brainchild is without a doubt the Big Apple's biggest star on the rise. After staging last season in three globetrotting parts plus a Pitti Uomo show on top of it all, we're excited to see what the NYC OG's have in store this season.

I is for Invasion: Whether it's the Fab Four or Girl Power Five, America has always loved a good British invasion and this NYFW is no exception. Bright Brit menswear designers Astrid Andersen, Bobby Abley, and KTZ will all be crossing the pond to make their mark at Milk Studios this season, while power creative couple Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley are slated to present their hotly anticipated third collection behind the reigns of MbMJ. Will Hillier and Bartley again call on fellow Brits Venetia Scott and Fergus Purcell for show styling and graphic design? Here's hoping.

Photography David Mushegain. Hair Alfredo Llamas using Oribe Hair Care. Make-up Sharon Gault at Opus Beauty

J is for Jeremy Scott: Between opening the first US Moschino boutique in LA mere weeks ago and presenting his third womens collection for the storied Italian house later this month, we're excited to see our favourite rebel with a heart of gold get back to his namesake label on his home turf.

K is for Kanye: We know he will be making his mark on NYFW with his long-awaited collaborative presentation with adidas, but past his Yeezy Boost's, we wait with baited breath to see what the rap impresario has got in store!

L is for Lincoln Center: With NYFW's downtown move, this will be Lincoln Center's last fashion week. Through throngs of wannabe street style stars and angry park advocates, we're gonna miss the old girl, but are excited to see what the future holds for NYFW.

Photography Mitchell Sams

M is for Menswear: Following last week's news that New York's menswear designers will (finally) have their own day in the sun with the inaugural season of New York Fashion Week: Men's this July, we're stoked to celebrate the win and see what all of our favourite boys have in store this season.

N is for Natives: Phillip Lim, Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang, Joseph Altuzarra, Donna Karan… the list goes on and on of Big Apple Natives holding court on the schedule in their home city.

O is for Opening Ceremony x Spike Jonze exhibition: The fashion equivalent of Fast and Furious, a 40-foot chocolate wall, and a full-fledged play at the Met. When it comes to Fashion Week, Opening Ceremony never fails to try something new. After digging into Spike Jonze's photography archives for autumn/winter 15, OC will present "Please Use Your Best Judgment", an exhibition of Jonze's photographs curated by Humberto Leon and Carol Lim. Shots of Björk, Sonic Youth, Mark Gonzales, and more will be on display.

P is for Peter Copping: The former Nina Ricci creative director and right-hand man to Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton will show his first collection at the helm of Oscar de la Renta this season, following the designer's passing in October. We're excited to see how Copping will carry de la Renta's elegant vision into the future.

Q is for Queuing: Apart from the FROW, prepare to from an orderly queue to see Public School, Proenza et al but don't fret, it'll be worth it!

R is for Rodarte: The sisters Mulleavy made a massive spring/summer splash with one of the boldest beauty statements of the season: fake pierced eyebrows. We're stoked to see what Kate and Laura have in store for this season.

Photography Alex Aristei

S is for Sixty-Nine: Oh get your minds out of the gutter, we're talking about the the Los Angeles-based anonymous denim designer responsible for some of our favourite non-demographic true blue pieces. 69 is switching coasts this season and staging a presentation in collaboration with DIS Magazine at Gavin Brown's Enterprise.

T is for Tijuana Picnic: If you're in between downtown shows and need a taco pick-me-up, or just want to unwind after a seven show day, be sure to check out Tijuana Picnic. The Essex Street hotspot has only been open since October, but its hybrid Mexican-Asian fusion (arriving by way of shrimp tempura tacos with fermented black beans or coconut milk marinated pork neck) has already become a fast favourite.

U is for Uber: Hope you've got 5 stars, because you'll be needing the super speedy car service jamming from Pier 59 to the Pavillion in this weather. Crank up your seat warmers (and Hot97), you've earned it.

V is for VFILES: Now a regular feature of NYFW, the image sharing platform turned retail store has again remade itself as a launchpad for the best in global emerging talent. This year XimonLee, DI$COUNT UNIVERSE, Andrea Jiapei Li, and Julia Seemann will all take their turn on the VFILES catwalk. Here's hoping the Mercer St crew will bring back those B-boy battles from last season's after party.

W is for Women's Tales: Back in 2012, Miu Miu launched Women's Tales, a collaborative film project enlisting high profile female directors to create short films. Launching the first four pieces at the 69th Venice Film Festival, the series has since been expanded to include films by Miranda July and Hiam Abbass. This season, Miu Miu is bringing the series to NYFW, screening Alice Rohrwacher's De Djess.

Image courtesy H&M

X is for Ximon Lee: Earlier this year, 24-year-old Parsons grad Ximon Lee wowed judges Luella Bartley, Lily Allen, and Tommy Ton and brought home the 2015 H&M Design Award, making him the first menswear designer to earn the achievement since it launched in 2012. This season will see Lee's highly anticipated turn on the VFILES runway, which kicks off Fashion Week tomorrow night at Lincoln Center. We're excited to see what this promising menswear talent has in store.

Y is for Young Designers: Fashion Week parent company IMG might have bought out Made Fashion Week, but so far that hasn't stopped Milk Studios from assembling a tip top team of emerging New York design talent this season. In addition to hosting Astrid Andersen and Bobby Abley's transplant collections, NYC up-and-comers Collina Strada and Sandy Liang will also see their debut Milk presentations this season.

Z is for Zzzzz: Don't bother setting an alarm, you'll need some serious shut eye once it's all over. 

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Text Emily Manning