nyfw: christmas comes early for ammerman schlosberg spring/summer 15
Elizabeth Ammerman and Eric Schlösberg’s fourth collection is the gift that keeps on giving: jingle-bell chokers, Lolita platform slippers, and, wait for it, JNCO. i-D got in the spooky X-mas spirit with the designers at their spring/summer 1...
Photography Ian Stoner
Although this is only Elizabeth Ammerman and Eric Schlösberg's fourth season as label Ammerman Schlösberg, they already have the mindset of well-seasoned fashion vets. "We hate going to fashion shows," they say, "they're too hectic."
The duo decided to start designing together because of their similar taste in aesthetics. "Lolita juxtaposed with something sultry and naughty," as they describe it. When brainstorming for their collections, they always start with one theme or idea. For spring/summer 15 it was Christmas. Festive plaids figure prominently - some fashioned into pockets, others into skirt and top sets - a green and red motif runs throughout. Then there are the jingle-bell-adorned chokers, part of the pair's new collaboration with Zana Bayne, and which saw fabrics fused with leather before the addition of jingle bells.
"At first it was like 'haha Christmas,'" Elizabeth explains, however as the theme came to fruition, it became less funny and more… 50s ska farmhouse voodoo, which might sound a bit hectic, but it's really not. In the realm of fashion designers, Eric and Elizabeth are the chillest they come. "We wanted to do something intimate, make it feel more individualised," they told me of their presentation.
There's something to be said about the fact that they didn't put on a show. That they chose to flaunt their clothes rather than the crowd they could gather. Walking into room 404 at the Gramercy Park Hotel felt like a respite, a safe haven within New York Fashion Week. There were no distractions, just them, the clothes, and me. The Crystals' He's A Rebel crooned on the stereo as two girls shuffled out one at a time on Lolita-like platform slippers to pose against a Lynchian red curtain.
The only thing that ran a close second to the clothes was Eric and Elizabeth's commentary. "This is the nail technician dress," Eric said of their all-white, short, nurse-looking dress. "Our first Ammerman Schlösberg suit!" they cheered as one of the models came out in a red-and-white gingham top and matching garter skirt. "For the business woman in you." And of their Milkmaid Lolita dress - they make a different Lolita dress every season - Eric said, "Made with silk parachute fabric and glitter organza, because… naturally."
As if they hadn't already stolen my heart enough, they just had to mention JNCOs, those giant denim jeans that epitomized a certain 90s look. Eric pointed out the collection's JNCO-looking pants, with their cropped, low-rise Comme des Garçons feel.
So where does the "voodoo" come in? Many of the pieces had voodoo stitching, while some tops bore satanic-themed prints, made by their friend Avery Noyes. "Cute and scary!" they kept saying.
Text Rachel Hodin
Photography Ian Stoner