Saint Laurent autumn/winter 18. Photography Mitchell Sams.

anthony vaccarello continues his quest to reimagine glamour at saint laurent

The who, what and wow of Saint Laurent autumn/winter 18

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Mar 1 2018, 2:42am

Saint Laurent autumn/winter 18. Photography Mitchell Sams.

Who
After he reimagined the rich fashion history of Yves Saint Laurent for a new generation during an epic open-air Trocadero spring/summer 18 show, the fashion set wondered how Anthony Vaccarello was going to up the glam stakes this season.

As the “Beast from the East” swept through the capital, with its freezing winds and sporadic snow falls, Vaccarello thawed the coldest of hearts with a spectacular display of sex and power against a backdrop of a light show. Vaccarello designs glamour for the new generation.

Saint Laurent autumn/winter 18. Photography Mitchell Sams.

What
After Saint Laurent announced a 25% increase in revenue last year -- the second-largest growth in the Kering group -- Vaccarello opened the show with a power-play procession of all-black everything that seamlessly segued into the men’s looks. From variations on Le Smoking to leather short shorts and sequinned hot pants, floor-skimming leather skirts, sheer blouses to slick suiting, there were luxurious items for everyone. It was fun, sexy, playful and provocative.

Then came the gravity-defying, possibility-pushing sculptural cocktail dresses and eveningwear. It’s here where Vaccarello had the most fun, urging the house’s atelier to reimagine the archive for today. The 80s shoulders were shrunken and the draped fabrics reined in to allow the finale of sparkle encrusted florals to shine.

Saint Laurent autumn/winter 18. Photography Mitchell Sams.

Wow
Kaia Gerber’s circular motion black cocktail dress and Hiranda Martinez’s sculpted shoulder dress which were both completed with chandelier-worthy earrings and feathered heels, encapsulating Vaccarello’s new eveningwear for new women, while the floral finale -- soundtracked by Kanye West’s Runaway and illuminated by a bulb-blinking light show -- saw him reimagine prints from Yves Saint Laurent’s Russian collections. Dreamy.

Saint Laurent autumn/winter 18. Photography Mitchell Sams.
Saint Laurent autumn/winter 18. Photography Mitchell Sams.
Saint Laurent autumn/winter 18. Photography Mitchell Sams.
Saint Laurent autumn/winter 18. Photography Mitchell Sams.
Saint Laurent autumn/winter 18. Photography Mitchell Sams.
Saint Laurent autumn/winter 18. Photography Mitchell Sams.
Saint Laurent autumn/winter 18. Photography Mitchell Sams.

This article originally appeared on i-D UK.