gypsy sport autumn/winter 16
The NYC brand’s newest offering was refined, but its leader Rio Uribe still championed energetic, eclectic expressionism.
Photography Jason Lloyd Evans
Arguably, some of the most exciting designs debuted in New York this week haven't emerged from fashion's eternal quest for never-before-seen newness. On Monday, Eckhaus Latta and Jeremy Scott both showed collections that built on and refined their signature languages. Yesterday's Gypsy Sport show at Milk Studios was a smartly scaled back examination of the NYC-bred brand's codes of radical inclusivity.
"We tried to do some shapes that we'd already shown in the past and redeveloped the silhouettes to be a little more refined -- a better fit," Gypsy Sport's creative director Rio Uribe explained backstage. Among the familiar silhouettes were baggy bandeau tops in heavy natural fabrics and boxy trousers, belted to street-chic effect and cut with a wink to cult 90s labels like Cross Colours or Karl Kani.
Some of the collection -- including a wonderful series of silky sky-blue shirts -- we've quite literally seen before; Uribe presented designs just a few weeks ago at New York Fashion Week: Men's. That's where he first gestured to the overarching theme for both seasons: the beauty of skin. "We're working what we've shown in past seasons, but also there was a new idea of skin: second skin, third skin, fourth skin," Uribe explained.
During that men's presentation, Uribe debuted a pattern created from pictures of his diverse tribe of friends and collaborators' skin tones. Rich caramels, ebonies, beiges created a checkered print that covered sleek tracksuits and teddybear-like outerwear. Those patterned pieces were resurrected on yesterday's runway (and again feted by Whoopi Goldberg), but the range of colours manifested in exciting new ways, too.
Towards the end of the runway outing, Rio's looks transitioned from workwear-inspired to lace-infused. Lattice patterns arrived in honey, rich chocolate, and bone white. "All the girls who work with me have been coming to work in nighties. So I thought, damn, we have to make this nightie movement happen!" Uribe laughed backstage. "We added lace to some of the leather, suede, and fur just to give that weird contrast of neglige but strong outerwear." Paired with thick, fuzzy pullovers and Chris Habana's angular pieces of silver jewellery, lace provided moments of movement and lightness. But on its own, the sheer fabric was an elegant filter on all shades of skin.
"In the men's presentation, we showed mostly the skin print," Uribe explained. "But today, I wanted to show it as layers of different coloured skin on people and how that might be interpreted by someone else. The colour nude isn't really nude for anyone in particular," Uribe said.
Of course, skin wasn't merely the focus of Uribe's designs. His pan-ethnic, gender queer, body-positive cast of NYC's most uniquely compelling kids was out in full force yesterday (that proud pregnant model who closed last season again took the final trip down the runway, this time carrying her newborn baby). The tribe staged an extended dance party for its finale, and attendees snapped and cheered for their favourite runway looks. Autumn/winter 16 showed that precision is possible, even when you're leading a movement that celebrates everyone.
Text Emily Manning
Photography Jason Lloyd Evans