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from the bronx to bushwick, gypsy sport spring/summer 16 is new york distilled

The multi-ethnic, gender fluid brand gave its star guest, Jaden Smith, plenty of style swerving options.

by Emily Manning
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18 September 2015, 3:46am

Gypsy Sport got its start when an Opening Ceremony buyer asked founder Rio Uribe if he could place an order for the Howard Street store after admiring Uribe's evening look: a Yankees visor slash African kufi hybrid situation the designer had Frankensteined earlier that day. Uribe's show at Milk Studios yesterday quoted the Yankees half of that creation myth; but instead of the Bronx Bombers' logo, he riffed on other classic New York iconography. Rio reimagined the <3 in "I <3 NY" as his brand's "haturn" logo.

"This collection was very inspired by New York City -- its eclecticism and eccentricity," Rio said backstage. Geographically, his references nailed the neighbourhoods. Embroidered silk dragons struck just the right note of Chinatown bag lady, and the GS remix of Milton Glaser's logo certainly had Midtown tourist traps covered. Athletic mesh and basketball nets recalled Harlem's public courts, while models toting string bags full of fruit gave the impression that they'd just hit up a bodega. Kids with statement septum rings and baggy raver denim looked as though they'd strolled straight off the Jefferson L and onto Rio's runway. Most of the collection, it's worth noting, was produced in a basement in the Garment District. "I really wanted to convey how New York City has so many individuals, but we're also like a tribe. Even though we're all individuals, we stick together," Rio said.

It's this tribe that gives the brand its fearless singularity. Uribe's constellation of pan-ethnic, pan-gender creative collaborators have helped cement Gypsy Sport's status as one of New York's most boundary-shattering fashion forces. This crew was in full effect yesterday -- from boys whose beards were dotted with liquidy lipstck smears to the pregnant woman who put her baby bump on display more proudly than Kim Kardashian at Givenchy.

On the subject of famous people: it seemed fitting that Jaden Smith -- flanked by shutterbug BFF Moises Arias and, yes, new bae Sarah Snyder -- sat bobbing his head in the front row. Jaden has proven his own disregard for society's established gender codes, and Uribe certainly gave him some more options to style swerve in.

"It was about playing with how many cultures and religions actually exist here," Rio said of his cross-borough inspiration pool. "That goes beyond being biracial. You can be triracial and have parents from different religious backgrounds. I wanted to express that generation who pulls together all of these influences we see every day and puts that into a look." 

Read more i-D fashion month coverage here.

Credits


Text Emily Manning
Photography Kate Owen