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7 instantly iconic fashion looks from 'twin peaks: the return'

From Michael Cera's biker ensemb to Laura Dern's kimono.

by Emily Kirkpatrick
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07 July 2017, 11:02pm

Michael Cera in 'Twin Peaks,' via YouTube.

While David Lynch is famous for his surrealist plot lines, he's also known for his unparalleled mise en scène and use of costuming to tell a story. Meaning that, along with that damn fine cup of coffee, you can expect a whole lot of damn fine fashion moments from a Lynch production. So though the Twin Peaks reboot features many of the same characters and costumes we've come to know and love — Dr. Jacoby with his conspiracy theories and red- and blue-lensed glasses, the Double R Diner's Shelly Johnson in her robin's-egg-blue waitress uniform, the Log Lady with her oversized red rimmed glasses — it is also full of very Lynchian sartorial surprises.

Still from Twin Peaks, via YouTube

Evil Agent Cooper's snakeskin shirt
When we first see Special Agent Dale Cooper in the season three premiere — wearing his iconic slim-cut black suit, crisp white button-down, and black tie — he's a sight for sore eyes. But while it's great to see him back on the case and dressed for the job, it's Bad Agent Cooper, his evil dopplegänger possessed by the spirit of Killer Bob, whose style really steals the show. Bad Cooper wears his hair long and scraggly with a wardrobe that seems to consist exclusively of wife-beaters, leather jackets, and snakeskin button-downs. He's a bizzaro new iteration of our beloved detective, a sort of 70s lounge lizard with the moral code to match.l

Dougie Jones's nightmarish pea-green blazer
Meanwhile, after he leaves the velvet-upholstered purgatory of the Black Lodge, Good Cooper reemerges in the body of a disoriented Nevada businessman. Dale transforms into Dougie Jones, an identical human decoy manufactured by Bad Cooper in an attempt to escape having to return to Black Lodge. Dougie is a shady middle-class insurance broker complete with all of the suburban trappings of a wife, son, and huge gambling debt he owes to some bookies who are trying to kill him. But if Dougie's personal life is an affront to all of the values Agent Cooper holds dear, it's nothing compared to the atrocity that is his wardrobe, complete with garishly patterned ties and baggy chartreuse and mustard yellow suit jackets.

Still from Twin Peaks via YouTube

Laura Palmer's timeless Black Lodge gown
While it's her yearbook photo and deathly plastic-wrapped face that have become the enduring iconography of Twin Peaks, the show's third season marks the return of a very different Laura Palmer. She meets Dale Cooper in the Black Lodge once again, exactly as she promised she would in the the season-two finale: 25 years later. An older Palmer appears in the very same lace-up black gown she wore back then, to deliver some final words of advice about escaping the limbo-like environment once and for all. Proof that just because your soul inhabits a liminal space doesn't mean you can't look fabulous while you're there.

Related: David Lynch Is on a Beautiful Journey Towards Enlightenment (and You Can Be, too)

Still from Twin Peaks, via YouTube

Deputy Andy Brennan and Lucy Brennan's perfect style marriage
The Sheriff Department's secretary Lucy Brennan (née Moran) and Deputy Andy Brennan are touchstones of Twin Peaks's past. Both are exactly as we left them 25 years ago — the only difference is that now these two bumbling figures of comic relief are married. Lucy is still wearing her floral grandma-ish sweaters with her blonde curls piled high atop her head, and is still overwhelmed by telephones and technology. While Andy is so committed to his look from yesteryear that he's still styling his thinning strands into his trademark pompadour, despite not having all that much hair left.

Michael Cera's greaser cameo
In a show full of A-list cameos, Michael Cera, doing his best Marlon Brando in On the Waterfront impression, is quite possibly the most surprising curveball of them all. Appearing totally out of left field and disappearing just as quickly, Cera plays Lucy and Andy's son, an ersatz Kerouac drifting across America with nothing but his bike, his cliché all-leather ensemble, and his pseudo-intellectual ramblings to keep him company. In other words, a classic transient David Lynch character who provides several punchlines but also seems to portend something much greater, if totally obtuse.

David Duchovny's return as FBI Chief of Staff Denise Bryson
If there's one star turn that might rival Michael Cera's it is undoubtedly David Duchovny's surprise appearance, reviving his role as transgender FBI Chief of Staff Denise Bryson. It seems that in addition to a promotion from DEA Agent, Denise has also upgraded her wardrobe, cutting her hair into a fashionable lob and trading in her collection of shapeless neutral-colored shifts for some slightly more form-fitting, tailored skirt suits. But while she may have changed up her look, Denise still puts her panties on one leg at a time. If you know what she means.

Diane!
A David Lynch production wouldn't be complete without his eternal cinematic muse, Laura Dern. While the audience was forced to wait until episode six for the first sighting of her pivotal character, the initial shot of Dern smoking a cigarette with her hair cut into a silver-white banged bob was well worth the wait. The role she plays also answers a huge lingering question from the original series. Dern turns out to be none other than [SPOILER ALERT] Diane, the secretary Agent Dale Cooper was forever leaving voice memos for. And she perfectly lives up to his description of her as an "interesting cross between a saint and a cabaret singer." In one memorable scene, she wears a luxe red silk kimono, an arm full of bangles, and multicolored fingernails carefully coordinated to match the shades of her ensemble. Her outfits are just as odd as they are meticulously chic.

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Text Emily Kirkpatrick