occult glamour from mcqueen, margiela and ann demeulemeester
Peek into the London exhibition exploring glamour's occult roots.
Live Archives in Hackney have announced THE CIRCLE, a new exhibition of alternative, occult glamour from the dark and supernaturally talented houses of Alexander McQueen, Ann Demeulemeester, BodyMap, Boudicca, Damir Doma, Dior Homme, Jean Varon, Lanvin, Maison Martin Margiela, Preen, Quorum, Rick Owens and Vivienne Westwood.
Created by award-winning exhibition-maker Jeffrey Horsley, the exhibition is inspired by the concept of glamour in the essay A Note on Glamour by Elizabeth Wilson, Visiting Professor of Cultural Studies at London College of Fashion. THE CIRCLE, "revisits the occult associations of glamour's ancient Celtic roots and rejects the 'shameless self-exposure' of tabloid-driven infamy, garish sequins and bared flesh," moving away from the association with celebrity to an interpretation of glamour as, "an attribute of an individual… an appearance, including the supernatural, magical sense of that word -- as in apparition," in Wilson's words.
Rather than presenting full looks from each designer, the exhibition mannequins and live models are styled in individual ensembles, making the presentation more "editorial than curatorial" from Horsley and reflecting Wilson's assertion that glamour is not a commodity but "a self-produced effort".
THE CIRCLE is at Live Archives in Hackney, 27 November -- 11 December.
Photography Paulina Otylie Surys