marques'almeida go back to their roots for spring/summer 16

Marques'Almedia get by with a little help from their friends and a studio playlist by Fiona Apple...

by Felicity Kinsella
24 September 2015, 12:39am

​Photography Jason Lloyd Evans

This may be Marques'Almeida's first collection since winning the LVMH prize, but Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida have never been ones to get egotistical with just how successful they are. In fact this is the most "Marques'Almeida" Marques'Almeida collection yet. Because they won big (€300,000 to be precise) they felt it even more important to go back to their roots. And what they've always been rooted in is finding inspiration in the girls that they surround themselves with, and obsessing over that one muse per season…

This season they found their muse in the ever truthful lyrics of Fiona Apple. "We've always been really obsessed with Fiona," Marta tells us backstage post-show. "We got really obsessed with singer-songwriters and that whole idea of someone who is creating things in their heads, it's all so personal. When you listen to it it's all so raw. I think that's the frame of mind we were in this time. We just wanted everything to feel really personal and raw." After watching her music videos and doing a bit of Facebook stalking, where they saw Apple one minute having dinner with her friends, dressed in a huge gown, and the next wearing a Nirvana T-shirt, they created a collection filled with frills and ruffles, paper-thin chiffon and their staple frayed denim, patchworked into halter necks, asymmetric tops and low-rise jeans. It was perfect.

The inspiration they find all the time in the girls around them was shown not only in the show invite, which was an image taken from their last campaign series photographed and modelled by their friends, but in each of the girls sitting front row, clad head to toe in M'A, and also in the models' bed-head hairstyles. After the show Paulo told us where that idea came from; "There was one of our interns with this hairstyle and we took all the pictures of the line up on her and were like, 'we need to do this fringe on all the girls!'"

As always, Marques'Almeida is less about the clothes, the materials, the techniques, and ALL about the attitude of the girl the delectable duo see wearing their garms. In Fiona Apple's song Criminal, she sings, "It's a sad, sad world when a girl will break a boy just because she can." Well, we imagine that's the kind of world the Marques'Almeida girl inhabits, only less sad!

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Text Felicity Kinsella
Photography Jason Lloyd Evans

London Fashion Week
Fashion month
Marques Almeida
felicity kinsella
spring/summer 16
jason lloyd evans
ss 16