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Maison Martin Margiela, the French fashion house founded in 1988 by the Belgian designer of the same name, describes itself as a ‘cross section between fashion and design’. With an ethos concerned with the exposure of and mania for the craft and process of making clothes, the house rose to notoriety during the anti-fashion 90s. Struggling to come to terms with a definition of Margiela’s fashion, the press labeled this new mood ‘deconstruction’. Eschewing a cult of personality that attends many designers, Martin Margiela instead fostered a cult of impersonality: never photographed, never interviewed in person or as an individual (‘Maison Margiela’ answers fax questions), even his models are often masked. Similarly, the label in his clothes remains blank or simply has a number circled, and the Maison’s fragrance is ‘Untitled’ – literally. In 2009, the designer’s departure from the Diesel-owned maison was announced, and a young creative ‘faceless’ team now carry on his unconventional legacy, letting the clothes talk for themselves. Recent projects include collaborations with H&M and Converse and supplying the entire wardrobe for Kanye West’s Yeezus Tour, including ten couture pieces and four of Margiela’s famous masks.


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