Milan Menswear: Antonio Marras AW 14Read moreRead more
Antonio Marras’ design aesthetic is entrenched in his hometown of Alghero, Sardinia. Growing up in his father’s textile boutique, Antonio learnt how to handle fabrics from an early age but he lacked any formal design training. It took a Rome-based entrepreneur to spot Antonio’s potential, allowing him to launch a career as a designer in 1987, working with various fashion houses. It wasn’t until 1999 that he showed his first own-label ready-to-wear collection in Milan. In 2003 Antonio was appointed Artistic Director of Kenzo, celebrating the brand’s 40th anniversary at the helm in 2010, before leaving to work on his own line in 2011. During his time at Kenzo, Hilary Alexander said of him: “He has a poetic, at times academic approach to fashion, creating collections inspired by the pastoral tradition and rich history of his island home”, describing Antonio as having an “intellectual, nomadic spirit”. The designer has remained firmly based in Alghero throughout his career, working with his extended family. His cut and paste aesthetic is characterised by his high standard craftsmanship (laborious and highly detailed embroidery) random destruction (holes burned in fine fabrics, tears and stains), extravagant brocades sitting cheek-by-jowl with an unfinished hem, and deconstructed shapes with vintage fabrics. Antonio continues to show in Milan, presenting his collections in fantasy sets that combine heritage, romanticism and nature.