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Ann Demeulemeester once told an interviewer that women are not like Barbie dolls and that she likes a subtle femininity in men. Born in Belgium in 1959, Demeulemeester went on to study at Antwerp’s Royal Academy, from which she graduated in 1981 as part of the now legendary ‘Antwerp Six’ group of designers and launched her own label in 1985. Given her long-entrenched fondness for black (she has mainly clad herself in black since her Patti Smith-loving teens) along with the severity of her earlier work, with its wilfully unfinished look, she became known as a key figure of the deconstruction era of fashion during the late 80s and early 90s, alongside Dries Van Noten and Walter Van Beirendonck. Today Ann continues to delight her diehard fans (including i-D’s Anders Christian Madsen) with her ethereal collections, intellectual concepts and long hair.


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