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top 5 J.W. Anderson autumn/winter 14 moments

As a designer, Jonathan Anderson's authority over silhouette and cut is what makes him so appealing, whatever sex he designs for. His androgynous gazelles are built upon an elegance that, now diffused from its initial hard-hitting conceptualism, has blossomed into a bright, bold vision for our time. From the thigh-high flat boots of last season, the heeled brogues at yesterday’s show were another feminine feature translated into a J.W masculine ideal. His translations and transportations between man and woman are as compelling as ever. We choose the top looks from his autumn/winter 14 collection.

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Text Bojana Kozarevic
Catwalk photography Mitchell Sams 

  • classic camel

    An oversized yet sharp, classic coat. The refined shoulders kept the silhouette in shape within a luscious camel cashmere wool mix. The styling detail of the black choker was a personal favourite. A futuristic David Byrne? Yes please. 

    j.w. anderson autumn/winter 14

  • tailor talent

    Every look- every trouser an absolute hit. Appealing to the whole audience, these high-waisted tapered crops are bound to be a stand-out piece of the season. In sculpted silk, with symmetrical folds at the waist on some, they projected a distinguished form on the catwalk.

    j.w. anderson autumn/winter 14

  • a beautiful assault on the eyes

    One of three, the high-waisted trews and over-sized floral jacket were an extrovert conglomerate of the collection. Modern, cropped and controlled with a sharp deftness.

    j.w. anderson autumn/winter 14

  • colour!

    Colour blocking was another effective way to show the trompe de l’oeil of the waist folds. Tucking in those shirts and flaunting that hips- that's what it's about.

    j.w. anderson autumn/winter 14

  • pleating and pleasing

    Pleating – and moreover in black – is the most effective way to show J.W. Anderson’s affirmation of the feminine detail on the male. A pleated trench and a pleated suit jacket were two graceful nods to female form on man.

    j.w. anderson autumn/winter 14