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ride the men's rave for autumn/winter 14

Life is a rave, and for autumn/winter 14 you don’t need an abandoned warehouse or a glow stick to get into gear. All around the manscape, menswear designers are getting their cyber shorts and Buffalo boots out of retirement for a season that should forever be spelled out in neon lights. (Sadly there were no actual Buffalo boots in sight at the shows, but here’s to keeping the dream alive.) With approaches ranging from sci-fi conventions to superheroes, nature and even the Renaissance, the menswear designers of the European fashion capitals can’t get around their ravey nostalgia and general love of a metallic surface. That’s right, you might be fronting major fashion houses in your intellectual indoor scarves these days, but we all know what you were up to in the early 90s. Rave, riot, or prom, no party is complete without a best-dressed award so with that in mind, we present to you the top five rave looks of the autumn/winter 14 men’s collections.

Text Anders Christian Madsen
Photography Mitchell Sams

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  • james long

    James Long probably never made it to the original raves of the early 90s since he was like ten at the time, but he did make it to a ton of sci-fi conventions in the early 2000s, and as it turns out, the outcomes of the two are pretty much the same. Long based his collection on the cosplay he saw when he would accompany cult star Virginia Bates, whom he assisted early in his career, to the conventions. “The queues were absolutely insane because she was in Dr Who and Star Wars. I got the real deal,” Long told i-D after the show, which featured models with their hair lacquered blue in high-tech quilting, shine, and some very futuristic sweatpants. While Long’s starting point may have been slightly more geeky than ravey, the effect was the same. And at the end of the day, ravers are just as geeky as Trekkies.

    jameslonguk.com

    james long autumn/winter 14

  • issey miyake

    If Issey Miyake went raving back in the day, his club name had to be Fizzy Miyake. Whether Yusuke Takahashi has an equally vibing alias is anyone’s guess, but his electrifying autumn/winter 14 collection for the house would strongly suggest it. No one makes clothes like that unless they’re really fun on a dance floor. Takahashi’s rave look came from extreme nature, and this quilted iridescent iguana jacket with matching performance gloves was like acid rock. He even matched it in the lining of the trousers, which is basically any raver’s dream. And on a poetic note, Takahaski managed to bring out the escapism that raves are really all about. It was all the rave.

    isseymiyake.com

    Takahaski

  • Dries Van Noten

    “It was the Boy with the Pearl Necklace,” Dries Van Noten recently quipped to i-D in a conversation about his rave-meets-Renaissance spectacular, which received as much online buzz for its pearl necklaces as it did for its ravey disposition. Funny that, isn’t it? A designer in his fifties makes a collection based on the high fortress of youth culture – i.e. rave – and the controversy centres on the fact that he put boys in pearls on princely collars. But when it comes to Van Noten, we know to expect the unexpected. He did, for instance, tell the congregated fashion press that his parade of tie-dye trousers, reflector coats, cyber trainers, and acidy knits, which took place in the underground riding ground of the Grand Palais – a dream venue for a rave – was inspired by Bronzino, as in the Renaissance painter. Surprising, perhaps, but that’s how you make ravewear look regal. You could say Van Noten raved his magic wand.

    driesvannoten.be

    Dries Van Noten

  • Y-3

    There’s something intrinsically ravey about Y-3 in general, and this season Yohji Yamamoto and his adidas team could do it with their eyes closed. (Which, incidentally, is what tends to happen to people towards the end of raves.) Take for instance this knee-length jumper with the already pretty ravey adidas logo stripes down the front and those stripey laces, not to mention the reflector stripes on the vest and the electrocusion hair. Throw in a whistle and some fly-eye sunglasses and it’s 1994 all over again. Yohji based his Y-3 rave show on the uniforms of superheroes, and like Long’s cosplay, it’s all cut from the same rave cloth. If ravers didn’t rave to be supeheroes, why would they rave at all? Spandex and capes didn’t live in vain.

    y-3.com

    Y-3

  • John Galliano

    Bill Gaytten had a need for speed this season, and it wouldn’t be entirely awful fashion journalism to call his new look for the John Galliano man ‘cycling chic’. Or maybe it would, but this is a top five so bear with us. Taking lycra to the next level, Gaytten’s collection was firm, fast and ready for action, like this cyber-outdoor exit comprised of a glistening windbreaker with token green rave detailing, polyamide-ish stripy leggings, and a fun-soled trainers. Granted, the rave look perhaps isn’t for just any gentleman out there, but should you find yourself with a pair of impulsively purchased cycling leggings for daywear, the excellent thing about the rave wardrobe is that it doubles for sportswear. Ravers: good at dancing and clever, too.

    johngalliano.com

    John Galliano