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the rising stars of menswear

i-D Fashion Editor Jack Borkett reflects on another season of wonderful menswear shows, with his choice of rising designers and future stars.

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Text Jack Borkett
Photography Mitchell Sams 

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    Father and son design dup, Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford, flip, reverse, displace and juxtapose. The ordinary and familiar are deliciously distorted in their hands. Distinct lines of sportswear and formalwear are blurred through Casely-Hayford's filter. Nothing is quite what it seems, so look closer! 




    Craig Green is hardly a newbie, but it would be a crime not to mention him in a group containing some of the highlights of the future of menswear. At his second London outing, Tim Blanks praised the collection, saying: “In Green's effort to expand the idea of what clothes can convey, he comes close to Rei Kawakubo.” And this wasn’t just the opinion of the trusted Fashion journalists. Many of the show’s onlookers said this season was a real “fashion moment”. Exploded volumes and body con cut-outs, it was less about the fabrication this time round with a focus more on garments and Green’s self professed ‘’silent protest’’. Watch this space. 


    craig green spring/summer 15


    "A riff on Eurocentric and African interpretations of style, a Creoleon aesthetic, which breaks down nuanced signifiers of authentic black masculinity and sexuality" 

    Well that’s how the woman herself puts it. St. Martin’s could not have found a more deserving winner for the L’oreal Professional Talent award. Her 70s inspired collection was all high-waisted flares and sharp tailoring, with a choice of sparkling accessories that would have made Elizabeth Taylor jealous. The innovative way in which she has revisited traditional menswear could teach Coco Chanel herself a thing or two about how to do the Boucle Jacket… for the modern man!




    SAM MC is a London/ Paris based brand, pioneered by Kanye West and Givenchy-trained artists/ designers/ entrepreneurs Samuel McWilliams and Alex Milsom. 

    "Their SS15 collection is about carnal and vicious creatures, which were imagined and hand painted by the artists on hoodies, tees, shirt and scarves.” After big success all over Asia, the English duo are starting to make their mark in their home continent. And don’t forget the label also do womenswear, so everyone’s a winner.




    For his debut menswear collection for MAN, Nicomeda Talavera ditched his singular obsession with all things abstract and pleated. Instead, this season he plained his way to perfection, with an interesting eye geared towards textile and geometric shapes, hinting at references to the work of renowned French artist Louise Bourgeouis. It may be third time lucky, but this London born designer has left us wanting a whole lot more 


    Nicomede Talavera spring/summer 15