i-D Magazine

i-d.co is best viewed using a newer browser

We recommend you choose one of the following for the best experience possible. Click to download:

I don't mind. Take me to i-D.co anyway

house of liza's jean paul gaultier inspirations

Collecting pieces from designers who shaped fashion from the late 70s to the late 90s, House of Liza is a trove of vintage treasures. One designer they particularly love is French couturier Jean Paul Gaultier. From cone bras to cages, they have hunted down his iconic works and we got a chance to browse the collection...

Related topics

  • the corset

    Bursting onto the French fashion scene in the mid 1970s, Jean Paul Gaultier soon established himself as the most provocative designer of his generation. Turning underwear into outerwear and putting men in skirts, he has been a lot more radical than any other designer. A good example is this autumn/winter 1987-1988 bustier/bras from the collection Forbidden Gaultier, which brought together an alliance between tradition and technology, with the use of rubber, plastic, metal and traditional materials, exploring a Barbarella world, and still arresting original these nowadays.

    Autumn/winter 1997-1998

  • the cage top

    The cage top with adjoining enclosed boning in a cutaway corset design, from the spring/summer 1989 Voyage Autour Du Monde En 168 Tenus – that also makes an appearance in the Jean Paul Gaultier's own music video How To Do That, is a good example how he, despite being criticized of indulging homosexuality fantasies in so many of his menswear collections, has explored, in the same unconditional way, the fetishist dream of raunchy female sexuality. This is an early piece that has brought much influence not only on dress but also how we saw feminity in the late century.

    Spring/summer 89

  • the aran knit conical bra

    One of Gaultier’s most important contributions to contemporary knitwear is the 1985 Le Charme coincé de la Bourgeoisie Aran knit conical bra dress influenced by the 50s “sweater girl.” It is from this point onwards that we see Gaultier exploring knitwear as a reassessment of feminity! 

    1985

  • the T-shirt

    Inspired by the work of painter, Richard Linder comes a T-shirt in a stretch viscose elastane with an overlaid textured print and representation of the trademark lace-up corset at the back, from the spring/summer 1990 Les Rap’Pieuses. Corset lacing has been a Gaultier trademark since his 1983 Dadaism collection, which has garments based on body movement. This is a theme that Jean Paul reworked season after season.

    Spring/summer 90

  • the perfect body

    The ideal male torso! The visual pun is strong, but stronger are the questions raised by Jean Paul Gaultier about feminine fragility and masculine power. The perfect body and the male-female conumdrum fascinates him and he uses prints of perfect bodies to illustrate this, like on this jacket from Cyberbaba, spring/summer 1996. Once again breaking the rules of good taste, his anti-aesthetic stance defined our anything goes epoch and became the new eclectic good taste.

    Spring/summer 96