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top 5 reasons why Gareth Pugh is unstoppable

Actually, no, it's not that he's 'unstoppable' - that word can imply a certain frenzy, a commercial endeavour or hysteria that is a far cry from what Gareth Pugh is about. But the reason that he is unstoppable is that when his collections are good, they're bloody good. They are incomparable, unstoppable and unassailable. It's not about commercial endeavours and accessibility nor is it a loud mouthed fuck-the-system middle finger. Gareth Pugh lies somewhere in the middle of fashion revolution and avant - gardism and a democratic, humble approach to his audience and buyers. Nobody will forget his first ever collection for spring/summer 2006, that fearless vinyl clad homage to Leigh Bowery, the grotesquery of black and white pointed silhouettes. And now queue eight years later, we are seeing a mature poignancy, a defiant talent who (without a chip on his shoulder) consistently presents original visions of a dark, otherworldly queen. In her own perturbing way, she reigns alongside Pugh in all-white this autumn/winter 14.

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Text Bojana Kozarevic
Catwalk Photography Umberto Fratini 

  • holy mountain, holy grail

     

    An all-white, controlled decadence takes on an independent form from the body itself.  From top to bottom - the hat, cape, dress and boots all dominate the body in settings of white wool and leather. We barely see the face and the silhouette speaks for itself. There's something of the New Look in the dress, and the sharp caping and shoulders belong to Pugh's own aesthetic. The look resembles a moulded cast of utter femininity, made uncanny with leathered trouser boots and the Holy Mountain hat. 

     

    gareth pugh autumn/winter 14

  • i see you

     

    Covering your modesty with a clear plastic sheet is the way forward a la Pugh. Then, dress the legs in trousered boots in which there is no beginning and no end - just gazelle lengths and nothing to hide. A sharp contrast to the above look, this hides nothing and clothes the body only in salience. 

     

    gareth pugh autumn/winter 14

  • star bright white

     

    A sheeted and strapped construction. Devouring the torso, the strapping holds tight the menacing white sheeted suit. An amalgamation of the above two looks, this suit clothed the entire body giving nothing away but white white light. 

     

    gareth pugh autumn/winter 14

  • white petals of smoke

     

    A shrouded puff creature takes runway. A ball up and a line down and you have a disturbing veiled creature of circularity and linearity. 

     

    gareth pugh autumn/winter 14

  • mrs plastic fantastic

     

    And then the bride, the raison d'être and the definitive Pugh queen of the autumn/winter 14. Who is she? She's the one that has fuck-you-ed the possibilities of using anything but plastic materials. She is the one that wrapped it all around her body with skirts, sleeves and trousers. She's a futuristic woman who is looking forwards, leading the way of Pugh's golden path. 

     

    gareth pugh autumn/winter 14