With the autumn/winter 14 shows well underway, we’ve already seen some surprises in New York: DKNY casting the city’s hottest messes in a Puffy-tastic show of fitted caps and furs; Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier reinventing Marc by Marc Jacobs as the MBMJ bad girls BMX clan; Rodarte looking to the cosmos (and not for the first time, as they’ve already sent Guinevere van Seenus into the Space X rocket laboratory) and closing their show with a weightless Yoda-print skirt. The force is strong with this season, so here’s 10 things to look out for at the shows… in order of appearance, London times throughout.
1. Marc Jacobs and Nicolas Ghesquière
After 16 wonderful years together in which they reinvented what we think of as luxurious, Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton parted ways last year with a magical midnight ball of black fountains, elevators and a carousel; this time around, Marc can focus all of his imagination on his own collection. Already this season we’ve seen a playful, youthful MBMJ show, and now comes the Marc Jacobs spectacular, kicking off around 1.00am tonight and closing New York! Afterwards there’s only a couple weeks until Nicolas Ghesquière’s madly anticipated opening show at Louis. But which will you like the most? And who will have the more amazing set?
1.00am Friday 14 February, Marc Jacobs
2. J. W. Anderson
Last season LVMH also announced its investment in J.W. Anderson and its appointment of him as Creative Director of Loewe, showing a lot of love for London’s most exciting, iconoclastic designer. Having already wowed us with his first men’s show under LVMH’s part-ownership - an oddly asexual assortment of boys with bangles and brooches and handbags and high heels - what will his womenswear collection look like?
4.00pm Saturday 15 February, J.W. Anderson
3. Edie and Cara
Posh totty Edie (#9) and Cara (#5) are racing to the top of the Models.com charts, and rightly so; it’s Valentine’s Day and London’s so sexy right now. Who will hit #1 first? Where are they anyway? All we know is that Mulberry are planning something secret and special with Cara on Sunday; most likely involving that one Northern White-Faced Owl that somehow hustled his way into every one of her Mulberry campaign shots!
1.30pm Sunday 16 February, Mulberry
4. Lottie Moss
Who’s going to set the Models.com Hot List on fire and run off with everyone’s covers and campaigns? At the spring/summer 14 shows Malaika Firth and Natalie Westling appeared, as if out of skinny air, and now they’re on top of the world; already this season Natalie’s stolen the show at MBMJ with her Little My/Pippi Longstocking look of green karate-gi and vibrant red pigtails. But who’s next to blow up? Harleth Kuusik? Ola Rudnicka? What about Kate’s little sister Lottie Moss? Just turned 16, is she likely to pop up on a catwalk this season; or is she fully focused on school and mean girl Twitter quarrels? Follow @lottiemoss to find out.
5. class of 2014
Fashion East made everyone smile last year with two straight seasons of Ryan Lo, Claire Barrow and Ashley Williams showing wildly inventive outfits accompanied by wish-I-was-at-your-party soundtracks. Now Ryan and Claire are making way for Helen Lawrence and Louise Alsop, and moving up to NEWGEN sponsorship and solo presentations. What will come next?
3.30pm Sunday 16 February, Ryan Lo
How to make Milan more fun? Well, appointing our mate Jeremy Scott as Creative Director of Moschino is a very good look, and his first collection’s coming soon; cartoons and kawaii at Italy’s most colourful house.
8.00pm Thursday 20 February, Moschino
7. pop stars
Now that Rihanna’s the face of Balmain will she shine bright like a diamond on the Paris runway? What about Miley, will she smoke weed and stick her tongue out all the way through the Marc Jacobs show? Will Kanye ever be allowed into Saint Laurent? And what of Kim, who recently cut her pink Dior frock in two to make a crop top and pencil skirt; will her so-very-decadent hashtag #DiorDressICutInto2Pieces inspire Raf to deconstruct?
3.00pm Thursday 27 February, Balmain
No one was expecting last season’s Rick Owens show to turn into an angry goth-stepping spectacular with 40 scowl-face dancers from four US sororities stomping through the Paris night; nonetheless, that’s what it was. Since then we’ve seen a Viktor & Rolf couture show of ghoulish ballerina ghosts standing en pointe, and a Hood By Air finale of topless denim trolls, voguing as if possessed. What, if anything, will Rick Owens try this season? And will he invite us to a secret Mile End sex dungeon again?
6.00pm Thursday 27 February, Rick Owens
Minimalism has held the fashion industry in its thrall for a while now, from frosty cool Céline and Jil Sander to the experimental forms of Alexander Wang and J.W. Anderson; but no more. Since last season’s riotous Céline show with its sloppy paint splashes and sweet rainbow explosions, it’s about having it all. “Like eating macaroons,” J.W. explained last month, “when you go through a phase of stripping and reducing, you kind of want more cake.” Phoebe Philo’s next collection for Céline promises a lot, as does Alexander Wang’s next collection for Balenciaga. His own-label show of fluorescent astrakhans, space-age weaves and thermal-responsive polymers looked like the future; now the stage is set for Wang to really make a statement at the old French house.
1.00pm Sunday 2 March, Céline
10. Chanel sneakers
Everyone was blown away by the spring 14 Chanel couture show, but is the sexy sneakers trend here to stay?
10.30am Friday 4 March, Chanel