The ponchos and embellished Mexican shirts Hedi Slimane showed on Sunday night in Paris shared the wish-you-were-here sentiment of the season.
Miami and its subtropical Cuban-infused culture has been a huge thing in the spring/summer 15 shows – just look at Versace, Roberto Cavalli, Marc Jacobs, and Issey Miyake – so it was only appropriate that the last show of the season would channel a similar reference. Hedi Slimane’s beaches of choice are located on the opposite American coastline, in California, but the ponchos and embellished Mexican shirts he showed on Sunday night in Paris shared the wish-you-were-here sentiment of the season. It was one of the designer’s most directional collections since he created his Saint Laurent. Not that all the skinny cuts, leather, denim and general rock’n’roll vibes weren’t there – because they very much were – but the South American festival feel added a certain definable character to the collection, which went down a storm with Slimane’s artist and musician friends perched on the front row. Above all, it was a super intricate collection with tons of embellishment, embroidery, and artisanal wealth, which somehow managed to merge that men’s couture phenomenon everyone’s talking about with a completely youthful festival spirit. Don’t mind doing it for the kids.