Hermès may have written the book on downplayed fashion but still serves as impressive reminder of how this house can make the loudest look understatedly chic.
“A manifesto of prints,” read the Hermès show notes at Saturday evening’s show under the peristyle at Couvent des Cordeliers, and Véronique Nichanian wasn’t exaggerating. To the sound of Drifting Shards by Giles Lamb, and executed in the luxuriously downplayed fashion on which Hermès wrote the book, prints were scattered all over the casual tailoring of the spring/summer 15 collection, but they never interrupted the calm simplicity of the big picture. Marble effects – or ‘Tobacco’, as Hermès had dubbed it – on tops, trousers, and outerwear set the tone for a series of nature-centric prints, which remained continuously subdued, adding to the soft lines of the collection.
Hermès was never going to do a vibrant tropical print, and when the florals arrived Nichanian got to flex her sophistication muscles. Quietly elegant, they had a faded, almost tea-stained grace about them, which took the idea of floral prints to an entirely different level. In a season that’s had flowers all over the place – following two seasons where the case was pretty much the same – seeing Hermès’ interpretation of the trend was an impressive reminder of how this house can make literally the loudest of fashion concepts look understatedly chic.