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acne studios spring/summer 15

Just because we're bored of talking about it, it doesn't mean normcore's over. Casual luxury inspired by the understated wardrobes of skater boys was the theme at Acne.

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Fashion is already fed up with normcore, but that doesn’t mean designers are done reflecting on the concept. Like Miuccia Prada before him, Jonny Johansson had been thinking about understatement, an idea that fuelled a decidedly stripped-down and easy collection beyond the expected clean-cut Acne aesthetic. “I really wanted to marry two contrasts,” Jonny told i-D. “One was this traditional classic menswear, which is really casual but also mature, and I wanted to contrast that with this sort of ‘nothing-skateboarder’, I call it.” Fascinated with the understated wardrobes of skaters, the designer worked with the notion of ‘real clothes’ resulting in a kind of formal skater wardrobe of sporty drawstring jackets, baggy formal trousers, and smooth surfaces. Jonny had recently purchased a Loro Piana nylon jacket (“I had a bit of a surprise when I got to the cashier, but I never back out”), the casual luxury of which got him thinking about the foundation of the men’s wardrobe and its purposes. “Casual, really functional menswear,” he called the collection, and coming from Jonny Johansson that’s not as boring as it may sound.