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Maison Martin Margiela spring/summer 15

Parachuters anonymous? Ravers incorporated? Margiela present a traditionally untraditional punky riff on techno-loungerwear.

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Parachuters anonymous, or perhaps ravers incorporated, could have been the key words for the spring/summer 15 Maison Martin Margiela show, which saw a departure from the tailoring-heavy life and times of the house’s menswear in favour of a lighter, less formal approach. Rumour has it some fresh London blood was recently brought into the studio, and if the partly street cast line-up and punkish undercurrent of the show were anything to go by, whispers were true. Perhaps that’s why the collection felt so instantly familiar and desirable. Working with shifting volumes, the Maison blew air in and out of lightweight fabrics in coats and trousers, creating a techno-y look that felt like a morph between loungewear and sportswear.

It was all about the outerwear: drawstring-hemmed parachute coats, a sharp double-breasted tailored number, a utilitarian riff on the MA-1, a blue and black rave coat, a skinny perfecto, a varsity jacket in thick satin, a belted black safari jacket, and a long yellow piece of the showstopper variety. Scored with a marching drum and sporadic piano, the show had an incredibly energy, and one that felt new for Margiela. In the artisanal department, the studio of course couldn’t resist the craftsman’s challenge of embellishing super tight, transparent, nude tops with sequins, giving the impression that they had been glued to the models’ bodies.