Fusing tailoring and sportswear for ten years, the designer steps up to the next level with oversized tailoring, cut away knees and the rebellious symbols of late 80s and early 90s.
It’s been ten years since Kris van Assche founded his eponymous label, KRISVANASSCHE, with the objective of fusing the tailoring and sportswear he loves in equal amounts. Friday’s show at Halle Freyssinet – an atypically large venue choice for the designer – was a tribute to his own obsession, and a step up to the next level of the hybrid garments Kris has been exploring since he first joined the Paris schedule. “Hybrids have always been my thing: jeans not being jeans, sportswear meeting tailoring, hoodies being shirts, and all that. So it’s all about illusions: mixing codes and using codes to indentify a personality,” Kris told i-D.
Entitled Illusions, the boyish collection used oversized, almost slouchy tailoring as the foundation for Kris’ crossbreed escapades, which had the knees of formal trousers slashed open and perfect square patches on other formal trousers hinting at features known from jeans. “All those early 90s/late-80s codes, they’re all in there: the bomber jacket, the slit jeans, the jumper—they’re all codes from when I was a kid and they kind of became classic so these youngsters of today use them to make their own identity,” Kris explained, standing in front of a trompe l'oeil backdrop of a gilded ballroom meant to contrast the barren surroundings of Freyssinet.
The designer was in high spirits, no doubt realising the magnitude of his accomplishments over the past decade. With his trademark discretion (for a high profile designer) and his super considered collections, Kris has slowly but steadily built something of a Parisian fashion empire, an exploit he’s previously admitted hasn’t always been easy when you’re the man who dared to take over at Dior Homme. Perhaps that’s why he talked about a rebellious aspect in his anniversary collection for KRISVANASSCHE. “It’s about the spirit in life when you feel like you’re gonna conquer the world and nothing is gonna stop you.”