It's skin on skin in the thirty degree heat of Milan for Calvin Klein Collection's presentation.
How in the world our friends at Calvin Klein Collection managed to keep their models out of the blazing Milan sun – which reached jolly thirty-plus degrees during shows on Sunday – for long enough to pull off Italo Zuchelli’s skin-on-skin collection was a miracle. It worked, however, and the result was one of the designer’s most interesting collections to date. Matching the nude colours of garments to the models’ skin, Zuchelli worked with the idea of layers of skin, coating one garment with another until you weren’t sure which were actual skin and which were fabric. It was a sick idea in the most positive sense of the word, and one that couldn’t help but make for a slightly fetishised collection in the medical genre of things.
“The skin is essential. It’s our main piece of clothing,” Zuchelli told i-D after the show, explaining how the running order of the show was designed to gradually fade from one skin tone to another, starting with a fleshy nude and ending in a dark brown. “And in the middle I wanted the opposite: very vibrant colours. I like opposites,” he noted, referring to the zesty red, orange and yellow latex jackets that shook things up mid-show. Transparent and glistening, they made for an equally pleasantly perverted vibe, almost providing a window to the skin underneath them, which of course wasn’t skin at all but more layers of garments keeping you guessing. As the temperature quite literally rose in the runway room on Viale Umbria, you couldn’t have asked for a steamier experience.