On Thursday evening in Florence, Marcelo Burlon rang out Pitti Uomo with an epic motocross-inspired show featuring live jumps and plenty of sex appeal.
For a Pitti season that’s been all about Florentine fashion royalty – Pucci, Gucci, etc. – it was only appropriate to end on a rebellious note. After all, the culture of this magnificent city was built on an insatiable desire for the new, whether it was art, architecture or indeed fashion. Italy’s number one purveyor of fun, Marcelo Burlon was the perfect choice for the challenge. On Thursday evening, the Italian-blooded Argentinean art director and party promoter rang out Pitti with his second collection for the eponymous label he founded under his umbrella company County of Milan. “They wanted me to do a party, but that’s what I do every week,” he told i-D after the show. “I wanted to do something bigger than a party.”
Burlon wasn’t playing around. Inspired by his childhood growing up with a race erector father in Patagonia, the blacked-out 10 PM show kicked off with a series of motocross jumps, guests gasping around the outdoor ring catwalk which had been fitted with a giant ramp. “It feels so sexy. It’s so sexy, right?” Burlon insisted after the show, his signature charm intact. And while there’s no denying the allure of petrol fumes and the sound of wheels accelerating in the dirt, more than sexy the show felt incredibly honest. For a while, Burlon had been hanging out with the Italian motocross champions, who opened his show, and his appreciating for their passion and aesthetic was undeniable.
Burlon is friends with Riccardo Tisci and did his PR before the designer joined Givenchy, and does, as a result, subscribe to the urban sportswear aesthetic trademarked by Tisci. But the collection didn’t feel like a riff on Givenchy. Rather, it was a view into the tribe to which Burlon belongs and their infatuation with the graphic t-shirts, tracksuits, trainers, and incessant layering that continues to thrill an increasing group of young men around the world. “It’s a family. There were a couple of models, but they’re my friends first of all. That’s what the County of Milan is. I’ve been doing parties for twenty years, you know? People came from New York, from Berlin, from Paris to walk this catwalk,” Burlon said.