On June 17th, 11:15am, a true fashion moment began to unfold. The fortunate few in attendance were left with ten minutes of delicate beauty that would live long in the memory. As Craig Green quietly stepped out behind his silent protest, a huge roar left the stomachs of the crowd and raw emotion bubbled to the surface. In his solo debut, London had just seen Green's tremendous promise evolve beyond their imagination. For many, the experience was overwhelming.
As the first few piano notes of Wim Mertens' Struggle For Pleasure echoed through the intimate Victoria House show space, the purity of Craig Green's spring/summer 15 manifesto unfolded. Backstage, a tearful yet joyful Craig described it as a "Silent Protest" and wouldn't elucidate further but the design talent didn't need to. Emotion transcended the garments, each audience member was touched in their own way by his spiritual procession. From the padded armour of ghostly warriors to delicate bondage daydreams and the sweeping robes of priests from tomorrow, we could each read our own meaning as time seemingly stood still as softness billowed, draped, sculpted and danced. With the gaze firmly focussed on the clothes, we could each find reason to join his carefully crafted cult.
You always start with an emotion and a reaction to the season before.
It was easy, freer. It sounds cheesy but it was about stripping everything away and becoming your ultimate form, like the beginning of the 2000s when everyone was trying to walk on water.
It was spiritual, zen like even.
There was a zen vibe. They were travellers and Bannermen embarking on a silent protest. Ultimately, everything was freer than anything we've worked on before, right through to the natural hair. Everything had to be appear easy.
Precisely. The natural movement of everything was really important. Nothing was static because there's so much drama in movement - it was important to have that ease.
Straps can used to contain but undone here, there was so much freedom.
Every piece is considered. This is actually the first time we've worked on denim. I wanted the focus to be on real garments. For me, this is sportswear but not in the modern interpretation. Lo-fi sportswear. Medieval sportswear.
Now, we have to talk about the roar and the raw emotion of the crowd. We've not experienced a show quite like it.
It was emotional for me too. The garments are made with emotion. I'm just so pleased and overwhelmed really.