If the familiarity of London sometimes makes you forget, this is where stars are born. So it was only appropriate that Lou Dalton would kick off the shows Sunday morning with a collection dedicated to her own declaration of control, and the international expansion of her label. Focusing on all the things that make her heart grow fonder – subtle boyish elegance, an impeccable finish, and interesting materials – Lou calmly and confidently sent her pristine menswear staples down the Victoria House runway to approving nods from her increasing fan base, and cemented her place on the London schedule as a wearable force to be reckoned with. i-D spoke to her after the show.
What was this season about for you?
I got into this just to put beautiful clothes on boys’ backs, really, and I just kind of went back to where I came from and the traditional tailoring, but not in a traditional form. I’m obsessed with fabric and I’m obsessed with finish, and I just wanted to do everything a little bit different and it feels like something new and something fresh.
It didn’t have the same sense of narrative as usual?
This was very personal, but it wasn’t so much a narrative because even though I obviously touch on my working class background, I never want the clothes to be very cap in hand. I don’t want you to have to wear the narrative, because I want the clothes to be on an international level and this is really about trying to push that.
The footwear looked great.
I’m really pleased about the development of the footwear with Grenson. They’re rolling it out to all of their stores globally going forward, which is fantastic for me, and working with them has been a fantastic opportunity. Not having to stick to their kind of brief, but doing my own and having the freedom to do it.
Was this your first season doing eyewear?
I was approached by Ace and Tate last season, and I started doing a lot of research into protective eyewear like a kid in a science lab. But obviously it’s moved on from that to something more contemporary. I really like the engineering behind it in the way that the clear resin allows you to see the mechanics behind it.