It's his all-important first season out of Fashion East, and Ryan Lo has just shown a wonderful collection of cute cow girls and spacey Mexicana in the Tate's Turbine Hall. But what connects Harajuku ganguro and Ja'mie Private School Girl and Ricky Martin? And how long has Ryan been awake?
When I strolled past your studio late this morning there was still a lot going on, and lots of spray-painted guns on the floor...
There was still a lot going on! But that's fashion, that's just the way it is, there's always some last-minute drama.
Did you stay up all night?
Yes I did, for a few days. But it's worth it I hope.
Of course, it was amazing! After three seasons with Fashion East, how does it feel to go solo?
I'm exhausted I really want to quit fashion (laughs)... no I'm not going to say that! Sometimes though, a lot of late nights, it's really tough! It's much more difficult this season, Fashion East helped so much. Organising stuff, basically, is the most boring thing.
Ok, are you going to quit fashion?
Maybe, maybe not, who knows? I have an i-D shoot on Tuesday, and then we're doing the showrooms, so I can't quit until Paris at the earliest (laughs).
So why all the cacti and the silver revolvers and the cowboy hats?
I wanted something a bit sci-fi in the desert, like Mars Attacks or Back To The Future; that's where the silver came from. It's cow girls I guess.
Who's your favourite cow girl?
They were all my favourites. I think this season we had really strong casting... and they're all super thin. You should put that, 'They're all super thin and I'm really happy.' Honest!
i-D does not necessarily endorse these views, and anyway you've been eating a croissant throughout this interview. All your cow girls had shiny long hair and bare legs, is that the look?
Yes, the straight hair was initially inspired by Pocahontas, but I thought we should make it more sexy, so we went for Ja'mie in Private School Girl, or Regina George in Mean Girls. Everyone had a centre-parting and straight ironed hair.
And were there any Eastern influences this season or was it a whole new world?
This year she's travelling the globe. So there's a bit of Kill Bill, you know, like a Japanese school girl with dot collars and shirt dresses. The make-up was influenced by Harajuku girls with super fake tans, they almost look sunburnt, so it's white girls pretending to be Japanese girls pretending to be very tanned white girls. It's really confusing.
Was there one song for this season?
I don't now why but I was listening to a lot of Spanish-flavoured music, I quite like Ricky Martin's She Bangs this season; it's quite offensive I think, naughty, yeah!