To the Kid Koala-mixed tones of The Rolling Stones’ Gimme Shelter and Sympathy for the Devil, Dries Van Noten put on one of the most exciting – and definitely the most electric – show of the Paris men’s rounds, deep underground in the dimly lit riding ground of the Grand Palais.
What inspired this dynamic aesthetic?
Bronzino and street style.
Renaissance portraiture mixed with modern streetwear?
It’s everything from punk, rave, new wave, new romantic, hippies, R&B; all these things, but mixed with the elegance, the fur. I really wanted to bring these ideas together.
What’s the result?
Sportswear becomes something else. I really wanted to do colourful men, and at the moment man and colour don’t go well together so I thought, let’s explore the possibility of doing over-dye, tie-dye, but also do bright colours and bleach them, or as we say, ‘mistreat’ them, so there were woollen coats, which were washed afterwards in acid.
Sounds like something of an undertaking?
It was a whole exploration. It was an experience.
How did your upcoming exhibition influence this collection?
It was like, ‘Shall we do something to do with the exhibition or shall we do a reaction against it?’ Exploring the 70s and 80s for the exhibition of course you start seeing things all over again, and it brings you ideas.
DRIES VAN NOTEN INSPIRATIONS opens at Les Arts Decoratifs in Paris on 28 February 2014.