Relocating from his usual black bunker venue in Paris’ Bercy to the bright spaces of Palais de Chaillot, Rick Owens bid farewell to the theatrics of seasons past and reminded us all that his collections don’t need gimmicks to be painfully cool.
Are we allowed to call those boots ‘wellies’?
Actually they’re like motorcycle boots and we call them Ramone boots.
What about those performance-wear vests?
They were more like flack jackets, like the ones used in the police and the military. They’re called flack vests, I think. I was looking at a lot of police research. I was taking elements of police uniforms and kind of dissecting them and isolating them.
Was this brutalist ease?
If you call jumpsuits ease? I love these jumpsuits, I can’t help it. I’m gonna be sharing them for a long time so you guys are gonna have to get used to it. I’ve actually started wearing them. I always stand behind what I design.
You always show at Bercy. Why Palais de Chaillot this season?
Well, we got as far as we could at Bercy, and it was a little inconvenient, and we also felt that we had reached the end of the cycle in theatre. It got theatrical to a point where I didn’t want to keep going.
I don’t want to be that theatrical designer, so we had to pull back. And this is my favourite building in Paris and it’s just a couple of blocks away from my house so it’s very convenient.